Safe boost to run in stock EJ205
Hey Guys,
Have Finally Fitted a boost guage to me WRX, Not a bank busting one but Drift brand, better than nothing, Now i just took it for a test run to see if it was working... And its boosting to 19PSI. Is this safe to be run through a stock WRX?? or should i wind it down? Cheers Andrew;) |
Do you have a manual boost control? Might be best to turn it back to 16psi and have a professional set it up for you......
Although it is cold weather so spiking a bit high is a possibility...... And you can never really trust a gauge.......... More full stops.................................. |
yeh
yeh it has a T boost under the bonnet...
its controlable from 13PSI to 20+PSI. I might have a play tomorrow.:p |
[SIZE="7"][B]boom[/B][/SIZE]
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Whoa
Dont Scare me rossco With big lettering... :p
too much u recon...? |
I'll just translate what Ross said: "Turn it down hey, kiddo."
Keep it around the 15psi mark. Any cold weather/nights will make it spike a bit too. Not so good. Obligatory dots to follow in next post. |
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[QUOTE=ALEX.;428249]I'll just translate what Ross said: "Turn it down hey, kiddo."
Keep it around the 15psi mark. Any cold weather/nights will make it spike a bit too. Not so good. Obligatory dots to follow in next post.[/QUOTE] Argh i see now... see ross dont have to go scaring me like that.. *SNIFF* *SNIFF* I will turn it down in the morning...:rolleyes: |
Good....
Otherwise... Possibly............ ...... |
[size="7"][B]boom!!![/B][/size]
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manual control isnt good i beleive the first time i played with my boost controller on my old gc8 funnily enough became my last..........
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Most of us run about 3 bar. Should be fine...
:D Brent. :) |
???
[url]http://www.perth-wrx.com/vb/showpost.php?p=427593&postcount=8[/url] ?? [img]http://i423.photobucket.com/albums/pp317/humphrey351/PICT0004s.jpg[/img] !! :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: |
naaaaaaaaaaa
no way sheel be right...;)
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You are an idiot.
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The lower the boost the better in your case!
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[QUOTE=jEstEr?;428441]You are an idiot.[/QUOTE]
I was joking mate. |
you can run 10 bar if you want, just keep it below 2000rpm
in my old wrx i ran 1.3bar |
how did it go mate blow it up already?
dont mind me while i hijack your thread :P i did the same thing, fitted a boost gadge and manual boost controller seems my 04 sti is boost spiking to 20pound then sitting back around 17/18pound... this is in hot weather too, so ive set the boost controller to lowest possible, will a tune fix the spikes? i thought a controller might smooth it out a bit |
How can a stock engine put out 19psi???
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[QUOTE=-ajayjay;430629]How can a stock engine put out 19psi???[/QUOTE]
if your reffering to voots car...its an ej207, could run 25 psi day in day out if tuned correctly. But manual boost controllers will = boom edit : just read the first post, you could set the boost controller to 30 psi but it wouldnt get enough fuel because it isnt tuned and itll pop. |
[QUOTE=-ajayjay;430629]How can a stock engine put out 19psi???[/QUOTE]
I'm no mechanic... but as far as I'm aware, the "engine" doesn't "put out" any boost at all... |
i am running a electric boost controller with high and low my low boost is set to 15psi and high is set at 1.3bar (20 odd psi)but my car is tuned to run boost up to 1.5bar if its not tuned for it dont do it
p.s i dont drive on high boost all the time |
[QUOTE=munya;430663]i am running a electric boost controller with high and low my low boost is set to 15psi and high is set at 1.3bar (20 odd psi)but my car is tuned to run boost up to 1.5bar if its not tuned for it dont do it
p.s i dont drive on high boost all the time[/QUOTE] could driving on "low" boost do damage as the car hasn't been tuned for it? |
[QUOTE=smerm07;430672]could driving on "low" boost do damage as the car hasn't been tuned for it?[/QUOTE]
When he says "tuned to run boost up to 1.5bar", he means that his car is tuned to run boost [B][U]up to[/U][/B] 1.5bar. Meaning air:fuels, and timing etc are all set and tuned appropriately all the way to 1.5bar... including the "low" setting on his EBC (15psi) |
[QUOTE=mattmy99;430675]When he says "tuned to run boost up to 1.5bar", he means that his car is tuned to run boost [B][U]up to[/U][/B] 1.5bar. Meaning air:fuels, and timing etc are all set and tuned appropriately all the way to 1.5bar... including the "low" setting on his EBC (15psi)[/QUOTE]
ok, thanks for that. |
[QUOTE=Voot;430620]how did it go mate blow it up already?
dont mind me while i hijack your thread :P i did the same thing, fitted a boost gadge and manual boost controller seems my 04 sti is boost spiking to 20pound then sitting back around 17/18pound... this is in hot weather too, so ive set the boost controller to lowest possible, will a tune fix the spikes? i thought a controller might smooth it out a bit[/QUOTE] Manual boost controllers are SHIT! Set it on a hot day = Overboosting / spiking on cooler days = boom or boost cut on a cold night Get an electronic boost controller if you're serious or run stock boost control (which is 1000x better than a manual bleed) if you don't know what you are doing. |
manual boost controllers (bleed valves) are for S13's. They don't belong on modern cars and will cost you a motor
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[quote=jester?;430684]manual boost controllers (bleed valves) are for s13's. They don't belong on modern cars and will cost you a motor[/quote]
+ 12345762345!! |
subaru gdb boost control solenoids are not much better than a manual bleed valve.
mine was tuned to 1.3 bar through the autronic, but on a cold/dense night it has been known to hit the 1.9 bar boost cut. tried another brand new factory bcs = same. have now purchased a grimm speed direct replacement bcs and needing to retune. |
^^ that's an ECU tuning issue not the solenoid!
I run the stock BCS on my version 6 running off the Power FC and it holds 1.6 bar no probs, never overshoots & response is crisp. too much gain will the ecu overshooting & the boost spiking. |
Some of you need to let 2002 go when all manual bleeds were utter shit.
Some of the new stuff give awesome control - ill find my friends dyno graph later, one of the flattest boost lines ive ever seen off a new style manual bleed. Having said that, id rather a good EBC in the car. |
[QUOTE=Rossco;430812]^^ that's an ECU tuning issue not the solenoid!
I run the stock BCS on my version 6 running off the Power FC and it holds 1.6 bar no probs, never overshoots & response is crisp. too much gain will the ecu overshooting & the boost spiking.[/QUOTE] ^^ I think it's more than that. most tuners, when using upgraded turbos on gd's either recommend upgrading the factory bcs to a mac or prodrive one, OR recommend after market stand alone ebc. the strange thing is on the dyno boost is very stable. |
[QUOTE=teejay;430824]Some of you need to let 2002 go when all manual bleeds were utter shit.
Some of the new stuff give awesome control - ill find my friends dyno graph later, one of the flattest boost lines ive ever seen off a new style manual bleed. Having said that, id rather a good EBC in the car.[/QUOTE] No offence intended TJ. There's only so much a needle valve, a ball bearing and a spring can do. EBC's react to atmospheric changes, fixed or gated bleeds do not. |
What's the best solution on a RS Lib engine running a TD05 and a PowerFc Pro?
I have a bleed valve ATM. Just want to run sensible boost around 16psi but have the ability to up it if needed. |
[QUOTE=axle;430865]What's the best solution on a RS Lib engine running a TD05 and a PowerFc Pro?
I have a bleed valve ATM. Just want to run sensible boost around 16psi but have the ability to up it if needed.[/QUOTE] I've had exactly zero experience with them, but you can get an Apexi boost control kit to work with your Power FC [URL]http://www.nengun.com/apexi/power-fc-boost-controller-kit[/URL] |
[QUOTE=type25;430829]^^ I think it's more than that.
most tuners, when using upgraded turbos on gd's either recommend upgrading the factory bcs to a mac or prodrive one, OR recommend after market stand alone ebc. the strange thing is on the dyno boost is very stable.[/QUOTE] Sorry I thought we were talking factory turbo's. Many upgraded turbos run 12-15 psi actuators and this requires a completely different duty cycle / boost map & flow from the bcs to effectively control boost.....this is where the factory system comes up short....It's designed for 5-7 psi actuators and struggles to control the stronger actuators. The stock system, with a factory turbo & with the boost pill in place, should be stable to around 1.6 bar....If it gets flakey the first point of call is the boost pill, which when replaced with a 0.9mm restrictor (ala uk P1 spec) this tames down spikes & softens the system response/ reduces overshoots (stock is 1.5mm). |
[QUOTE=axle;430865]What's the best solution on a RS Lib engine running a TD05 and a PowerFc Pro?
I have a bleed valve ATM. Just want to run sensible boost around 16psi but have the ability to up it if needed.[/QUOTE] The Power fc drives the factory boost system out of the box (as mine is set up)....... Have you tried it? You have boost targets, gain and a .25 Kcgm overshoot safety threshold built in to the ecu. Look under: Settings> Boost> there will be 4 individual boost 'maps' available. I have mine set: 1.65 Kcgm gain of 62....I get 1.66 constantly on the commander readout. Note: I have my gain set high as it ramps the car on boost pretty hard (which I like). If you have the pro you have the 0 road speed launch control too / fuel cut rpm limiter function....Bastard! P.s the boost control kit is for Nissans & mazdas....On a scoob it uses all the factory wiring, factory map sensor, pressure exchange solenoid & bcs. |
The grimmspeed EBCS is a rebadged MAC one anyway
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[QUOTE=Rossco;430878]The Power fc drives the factory boost system out of the box (as mine is set up)....... Have you tried it?
If you have the pro you have the 0 road speed launch control too / fuel cut rpm limiter function....Bastard! [/QUOTE] Nah haven't tried it yet. Still have to spray the car before its ready for road duty. Just taken it for one test run so no experience to speak of with it yet. Might try the standard boost controller and see how that goes. Will be getting it tuned once its finished. Its definately the Pro. PFC was a major selling point. Only noticed the Pro name come up on the screen after I had had it a while (bonus) expecially for the early GC8/RS wiring. and I think the Pro has the ignition cut whereas the std has the fuel cut......I think |
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