Yeah i do but its missing the water pump I don't know. What about a small FMIC?? Like a half size one? being stubborn here Nah, maybe you guys are right. Getting a FMIC will cost me at least $600, a lot more than a Water pump for the system i have. I'll have to start collecting parts now from the stuff i've learnt

Thx

Forget the FMIC.

Get a decent TMIC as mentioned above and throw a boost activated waterspray system on it. Read: Hobbs pressure switch.

I have one and it runs off my windscreen washer bottle as i never use that shit.

If you do go a larger GD STI TMIC, do your best to funnel as much air to it as possible (splitters etc, - Note: Big 05 STI scoops look gay on GC's)

That is all.

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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Should have bought an STI

Well if you want to keep things, just above normal, get a upgraded waste gate actuator and up the boost pressure a little on the turbo you have for now. You can do the same thing with a boost controller also, but a actuator should be cheaper than a boost controller.

Catless 3" dump and a 3" exhaust would be good. You might be able to get away with a 2.5" from the dump back. If this is for a Vortex, I am guessing you will have to get the exhaust fabricated, as I doubt there will be many places offering off the shelf systems, ready for install.

Do you have a inter cooler on it now? The water to air cooler would be an ok option. Better than getting a FMIC anyway. Especially if you are going to be keeping it close to standard.

Keep your finger on the pulse and check here, rexnet, ebay and the likes, and I am sure you will find a ECU fairly soon. You could even put up a wanted thread for what you want, you never know what people have sitting in their sheds collecting dust.

One thing that I forgot to mention. You may want to be upgrading your fuel pump. A Walbro 255, Bosch 044 or something like that, which will fit to your application. If you are going to be modifying your car, this is just a small fee to pay, to ensure you don't lean out the motor, should the pump you have now fail at any point.

Hope this info is of some use.

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Cheers,

Simon.

shame you don't have a later model sti motor going in, i would have had the perfect loom/ecu/wideband setup for you

Cool thx, What actuator would i need? one off what turbo?

Yep it will have to be custom made, more $$ here

I've got a complete WTAIC but its missing the water pump. I also have two top mounts but pretty std ones. not even sure what they are off?



Thats what i started to do So to clarify, I need a V5 or V6 Sti ECU?
Oh my loom has 3 plugs, does that still match the V5/6?

Yes i figured that i would have to at least buy a walbro,
Thx so much for the info

Ok I haven't read the whole thread, but I can see far too much bad information floating around in some posts.

Yes you can put a STi ecu for the same year as your wrx ecu in. This will only be of benefit if you have a sti spec VF series turbo to go with it. I would not run a sti ecu on a wrx engine with a td04 without getting the afr's checked on a dyno.

You don't want the car to pop, but you want to cheap out on the main part that causes the car's motor to pop? Leave the stock ecu and stock turbo on then? Why bother changing turbo's if you don't plan to maximise what you are doing?

If it was me, I'd spend the money on a PowerFC ($600-1000) and get a tune with your current TD04 ($400-600). All up you are spending $1000-$1500. This is the cost of a VF series turbo that everyone is recommending. And then you need to buy another ecu and and and and...

Advantage of getting the ecu towards the start (imo anyway) is you can later upgrade the turbo/headers/cams/intake etc and all you need to do is get a retune.

What car? TMIC fits Liberty's, Imprezas, Foresters etc etc. So why won't it fit here?

You want a 3" TBE (turbo back exhaust).

CAI (cold air intakes) are a load of crap. You risk sucking water up on wet days, they provide no extra performance but only provide some extra noise.

Best bet is a quality non-oiled panel filter imo, until you reach a much higher horsepower level.

Boost controllers and upgraded WGA without a re-programable ecu means you will probably pop your motor. You should never just up the boost without also looking at fuelling, timing etc.

I see no point spending a few hundred bucks for an upgraded WGA when you aren't wanting to spend on a ecu. Also, I see no point for an upgraded WGA if you haven't pushed the stock unit to the maximum first.

Please ensure you keep at least 1 cat in the exhaust system.

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nah take the cat out^

it's better for the environment and makes your exhaust smell good

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http://www.trapster.com - spot da haterz

Thats why you should have read it from the start Its all going into a vortex. I've heard that even the intake manifold doesn't clear or is very close and a buldge need to be made in the bonnet. Btw, thx for the info

This is what i'm aiming for, (hope the owner doesn't mind me using his pics)





[/QUOTE]

^ the rims are hot, i want them. tell me where he/she lives and when they wake up they will find bricks to replacing them *jokes*

the car reminds me of my old prelude, you don't see a vortex everyday TBH i knew nothing about them till i went over and bought the window off you guy. it will be one sweet project, good luck with it all

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98 gf8 Rip

Oh sweet, vortex's are cool in a weird way.

I'd personally plan the build from start to finish and prep the car to suit.

i.e. upside down fmic with reversed manifold and correct dia piping to ensure lag is a minimum. Upgraded turbo (VF34 for earlier spool or bigger like a TD05-20G). Definately budget in an ECU i.e. PowerFC, Vipec, Autronic or Motec. Full 3" exhaust.

Wham bam thank you ma'am, you have a weapon.

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[COLOR="Gray"]550Nm off a 2L... Just wish it was in the dak dak...[/COLOR]