[QUOTE=StubbsR1;634019]I prefer over steer to under steer.[/QUOTE]
As someone's signature is "Oversteer scares the passengers, understeer scares the driver" :D

[QUOTE=ewrxion87;633957]so lift the rear a tad and soften it out. at the moment i have the car exactly 25inchs from ground to arch all round mm for mm.
[B]Measure from the centre of the wheel to the edge of the gaurd[/B]

will -0.5 camber actually help? [B]Yes but I'd be inclined to put the front on about -1.0, rear at -0.5. [/B]

thinking about it now that you mention it... when i was taking the corner it was bumpy... do you think because the setup is so stiff the springs didnt have enough time to react ? is that how it works?[/QUOTE]You're on the right track there.
If your setup is too stiff then when the tyre rides up on the bump it will have the effect of catapulting the tyre at the crest of the bump, at which time your tyre/s is/are no longer in contact with the road. Not good unless you are trying to do a jump. The tyre should ride up one side of the bump and then down the other maintaining contact, yet not be so soft that it's like driving the Rottnest Ferry.

Thread has had a bit of a tidy...

Good to see you tested this out at the track, not on public roads... As being a dipshit on public roads does not go well around here ;)

It sounds like your setup is completely stuffed.

If you are taking corners, you want camber on your tyres. This allows the tyre to have more contact area with the road whilst cornering.

You want your suspension to be quite soft actually. I have gone down the path of having rock hard, moob shaking suspension and it is not faster or better. On a smooth track surface, yes you can go harder. On road surfaces, stiff = bump = more chance of tyres leaving contact with the road.

Your alignment needs to be looked at. To be honest, anyone letting a Subaru out with no camber adjustment is silly. I would also look at your stiffness settings for the front and rear sway bars. What was your final toe setting and castor settings too? These also play a massive role in cornering.

Tyres will be a factor. 205 width isn't helping in wet conditions. Also a tyre that is sex in the dry can be shit in the wet, so do some research on that.

Basically everything you do, you want to have the maximum tyre contact area whilst in the corner. Tyre off the ground or not fully on the ground = more chance of slip happening.

Oversteer is great!

[QUOTE=RUSSGT;634108]4WD power sliding is great![/QUOTE]

Fixed Russ :)

kato - cheers for the information.... so softer is better for the road and stiffer is better for the track...in a nutshell ?

yes...track would have been better but like i say i wasnt hooning...anyways i was back from upnorth for 2 days only and needed to try and sort this out...

looks like il go and see wa suspension again and get them to adjust it accordingly... if softer is what i need il just adjust the dampening knob....
in terms of spring rate / rebound etc... thats well and truly above me so il need an expert to look at it. swaybars are on the middle setting out of the three available...this is what my tuner set them at.

in terms of camber - what do you recommend others above have said -0.5 - 1.0 etc...
is changing the dampening knob enough...or does spring rate and rebound all different things to be taken into account...in terms of an adjustment i can do...would dampening be enough ? IYO

im listening to everyones opinions as they are all valid from my angle.
thanks

[QUOTE=Kato;634095]Thread has had a bit of a tidy...

Good to see you tested this out at the track, not on public roads... As being a dipshit on public roads does not go well around here ;)

It sounds like your setup is completely stuffed.

If you are taking corners, you want camber on your tyres. This allows the tyre to have more contact area with the road whilst cornering.

You want your suspension to be quite soft actually. I have gone down the path of having rock hard, moob shaking suspension and it is not faster or better. On a smooth track surface, yes you can go harder. On road surfaces, stiff = bump = more chance of tyres leaving contact with the road.

Your alignment needs to be looked at. To be honest, anyone letting a Subaru out with no camber adjustment is silly. I would also look at your stiffness settings for the front and rear sway bars. What was your final toe setting and castor settings too? These also play a massive role in cornering.

Tyres will be a factor. 205 width isn't helping in wet conditions. Also a tyre that is sex in the dry can be shit in the wet, so do some research on that.

Basically everything you do, you want to have the maximum tyre contact area whilst in the corner. Tyre off the ground or not fully on the ground = more chance of slip happening.[/QUOTE]

haha i saw your youtube video, its more than impressing :P

i dont think i have enough power to do that, and the experience / confidence to drive like that.
very cool.

[QUOTE=RUSSGT;634108]Oversteer is great![/QUOTE]

**saw

**more [U][B]than[/B][/U]

thanks mate
i should of used pictionary to check my spelling......wait wait....i mean dictionary :D

[QUOTE=REXXXED;634135]**saw

**more [U][B]than[/B][/U][/QUOTE]

I would have maximum front camber (-1.5 to 2 deg) maximum rear camber (-1 deg), maximum front castor, front toe at 0, rear toe slightly in for stability.

I would also avoid excessively low cars as dropped on the floor actually makes your handling worse.

Suspension doesn't need to be super soft. Rock hard is useless unless you are running slicks. A nice medium comfort and stiffness is what you want. As for what that is, you need to find that out as it is a driver preference. All you need to do is change your damping knob. Spring rate is set as you already have springs in there, etc etc.

perfect, thanks kato... i get the general concept but when it comes to nitty gritty confusion sets in.

when im in Perth enxt i will fix this.if 0 is hardest and 30 is softest, i suppose the least i could do is meet half way at 15. im not 100% sure my coilovers allow camber at the rear unless i have camber bolts from factory.. my fronts no issue.

as for it low wise - on the flat its about a coke can plus a finger n abit... from the centre of the body kit

cheers

[QUOTE=Kato;634161]I would have maximum front camber (-1.5 to 2 deg) maximum rear camber (-1 deg), maximum front castor, front toe at 0, rear toe slightly in for stability.

I would also avoid excessively low cars as dropped on the floor actually makes your handling worse.

Suspension doesn't need to be super soft. Rock hard is useless unless you are running slicks. A nice medium comfort and stiffness is what you want. As for what that is, you need to find that out as it is a driver preference. All you need to do is change your damping knob. Spring rate is set as you already have springs in there, etc etc.[/QUOTE]