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  #31  
Old 22-10-2013, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by django View Post
Guys I want to get ECUTEK removed from my 2001 WRX,I had originally planned on just selling my current ECU and replacing it with a completely stock one but I spoke to the guy at JWS Wreckers in Wangara and he said you cant just pop in another ECU?.

Something to do with the immobiliser system on the ADM Subaru's,keys programed to your existing ecu?. How much am I likely to get charged to get the ECUTEK removed or is there in fact a way that I can buy a stock ECU and get it functioning right in my car?
It is possible to have the ECUtek tune removed, from what i remember its your choice. From what i understand you'll be given a "standard" tune and hopefully if its done right you'll also have the TPU init code reset back to the standard. (which will allow you to either go to an open sourced solution or something else)

There are a few people who can read the ecu or even reprogram the ecu with the ECUtek license in place.

However i think it would be best in the long term to go back to MMS and have the tune checked. After all you have some receipts that some work was done and its often a good idea to deal with one workshop instead of applying the spray and pray method.
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  #32  
Old 22-10-2013, 07:03 PM
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There are a few people who can read the ecu or even reprogram the ecu with the ECUtek license in place.
Are ASG one of these?
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  #33  
Old 22-10-2013, 07:34 PM
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I haven't even thought about ecutek in about two years Marc but last I checked Racetourqe and MMS where the only two in WA who dealt with ecutek
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  #34  
Old 22-10-2013, 10:27 PM
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ECU's don't work well then not in 2 weeks, it's like saying your phone calls people fine but 2 weeks later it wasn't calling people properly.

Intermittent issues are usually electrical, loose wire or connection or a faulty spark plug or coil pack.
Also could be a fuel quality problem, when it does run fine that could be good fuel and the rest could be crap.
And when you 'reset' the computer did you let it idle for 60 sec to re-learn what it needs to?
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  #35  
Old 22-10-2013, 10:41 PM
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You do seem to have focussed yourself on the problem being the ECU. As lots of others have said get it checked somewhere they can check other things as well as the ECU.
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  #36  
Old 23-10-2013, 06:34 AM
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I think another way to put it is that your ECU might not appear to be acting correctly, but it isnt because the ECU is faulty but rather that it is being fed incorrect information by something like a dodgy AFM
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  #37  
Old 23-10-2013, 10:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SL33P3R View Post
ECU's don't work well then not in 2 weeks, it's like saying your phone calls people fine but 2 weeks later it wasn't calling people properly.

Intermittent issues are usually electrical, loose wire or connection or a faulty spark plug or coil pack.
Also could be a fuel quality problem, when it does run fine that could be good fuel and the rest could be crap.
And when you 'reset' the computer did you let it idle for 60 sec to re-learn what it needs to?
It could also be an issue with calibration of the ECU.

People need to remember that the "tuner" is only human and is doing a calibration based on his/her experience.

It's entirely possible for a tuner to incorrectly assume what a specific table does or even have a completely wrong description file in the first place (dangers of open source). I am in no way discouraging open sourced means of tuning, I'm actually in favor for it.

This is the reason why ECUTek exist, Their sole role is to provide engineering services to people who don't have the electrical means to do it in the first place.

Getting back to the point..

If the timing map has way too much ignition and the wastegate duty cycles for the solenoid run a little too high. The ECU will pull timing to try and save its own arse (assuming other tables haven't been touched to prevent this) because the engine is picking up knock feedback. The ECU will note this and then run badly thinking that you're knocking, after some time it will retry the calibrated values and add more timing in the hope that everything (ie fuel) is good.

As you can see in this example I've only mentioned two main variables to build up a road scenario. The ECU has multiple variables ranging from timing, fuel, manifold pressure, wastegate, radiator temp, ignition timing, throttle and many others (often combining two or more of these maps).

What you're paying for is a tuner that can take all those variables into account and produce you desired results. I've personally only seen a few people who can do this.

Choose wisely because no two tuners are exactly the same (unless they rip off other peoples tunes and pass them off as their own).
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Last edited by Intra; 23-10-2013 at 02:07 PM.
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  #38  
Old 23-10-2013, 10:28 AM
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fuel pump control module could also be playing up
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  #39  
Old 23-10-2013, 07:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Intra View Post
It could also be an issue with calibration of the ECU.

People need to remember that the "tuner" is only human and is doing a calibration based on his/her experience.

It's entirely possible for a tuner to incorrectly assume what a specific table does or even have a completely wrong description file in the first place (dangers of open source). I am in no way discouraging open sourced means of tuning, I'm actually in favor for it.

This is the reason why ECUTek exist, Their sole role is to provide engineering services to people who don't have the electrical means to do it in the first place.

Getting back to the point..

If the timing map has way too much ignition and the wastegate duty cycles for the solenoid run a little too high. The ECU will pull timing to try and save its own arse (assuming other tables haven't been touched to prevent this) because the engine is picking up knock feedback. The ECU will note this and then run badly thinking that you're knocking, after some time it will retry the calibrated values and add more timing in the hope that everything (ie fuel) is good.

As you can see in this example I've only mentioned two main variables to build up a road scenario. The ECU has multiple variables ranging from timing, fuel, manifold pressure, wastegate, radiator temp, ignition timing, throttle and many others (often combining two or more of these maps).

What you're paying for is a tuner that can take all those variables into account and produce you desired results. I've personally only seen a few people who can do this.

Choose wisely because no two tuners are exactly the same (unless they rip off other peoples tunes and pass them off as their own).
If it was the tune, it would be crap all the time or under certain circumstances, ie, boost, throttle position, load etc, not good one week crap the next.
If it is the tune, maybe it could be done as a 'warranty' having only been done last year, but by the symtoms described, not likely a tune problem.
More likely the ECU receiving false or bad signals if not one of the problems I described earlier.
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  #40  
Old 23-10-2013, 07:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SL33P3R View Post
If it was the tune, it would be crap all the time or under certain circumstances, ie, boost, throttle position, load etc, not good one week crap the next.
If it is the tune, maybe it could be done as a 'warranty' having only been done last year, but by the symtoms described, not likely a tune problem.
More likely the ECU receiving false or bad signals if not one of the problems I described earlier.
Pretty sure Intra knows what he's talking about bud
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