You don't need an electronic boost controller to control boost. E-controllers are waste of $. If its trully the boost controller (solenoid) get an autronic/MAC 3 port solenoid for $150 or so and its done.

But as indicated by others here, boost can probably be raised but if the engine goes bang, the tuner's goign to get the finger pointed at him. Its a bit of a catch 22 here.

understandably its a 2.5, they are grenades waiting to happen, but i'd be taking it at least to 1.3 bar, and raising the AFR across the range from 4000rpm upwards to around 11.7/11.8, drive a bit more timing in between 3500 and 4500 you'll hit more torque on the peak and make more hp toward the end of your rev-range, on a fairly stock setup i'd usually expect to see torque and horsepower peak within 1000 rpm of each other.

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Long live the WRC

try Race Torque they will tune it higher for u.

Yeah go and see the guys down at Race Torque.

Are you interested in numbers or driveable and safe performance?
If the former then crank the boost up etc, etc and get your numbers.
Personally I like to be confident that the car is driveable for everyday use and that it won't go bang on the track.
Just for the record an '06 STi with full MMS TBE and Tomei unequal length headers got 197 KW and 410 NM on the same dyno.
It all tails off after 6000 rpm...the set shift light point should be about 5800 to make maximum use of the torque.

I want both I'm greddy.
But seriously I want a driveable car(daily drive).
If it's the same car I'm thinking of it was 199kw/400nm.
Will have a chat with the guys from RT.........

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MY06 Pig STI
333hp/502nm

a MAC solenoid costs $56.

really?
the autronic was $150 when i enquired

MAC 3 port solenoid... how does this work? do u need a autronic or motec to power it? or what.. please explain

hooks up to the factory wiring
helps hold boost better