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  #351  
Old 29-08-2015, 06:39 AM
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Ahhhh completely forgot it was running the 205. Fair call with the 207 then. Hit up Jacob Ayres, he can get oem shortblock fairly cheap.
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  #352  
Old 29-08-2015, 07:40 AM
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Originally Posted by RichX View Post
If it is, block is 15 years old - done it's fair share of K's. It's a 205 open deck with cast pistons. Would be a "while it's out" type situation, so add a new 207 and create a better base.

Given that mentality, and the proven crate EJ207, arguably changing the pistons and rods may not be required given the application.
Totally forgot you are still running a 205 like me the ninja's must have done something special with our motors mine has been through a tough life and still ticking sorta.
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  #353  
Old 29-08-2015, 09:42 AM
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207 semi closed crate , good head studs , STI MLS head gaskets , Killer B oil pickup and windage tray. 11mm AVCS STI oil pump, Lightened flywheel and some new Double valve springs with shimmless bucket conversion .

Will handle low to mid 300 HP all day long , give you another 1200 rpm rev limit , Be great for rally sprint . Get it completed with a 5k budget doing some work yourself with help from buddys on here.

If you want to bulletproof the bottom end add $$$ for rods, Pistons, Rings , bearings, Phase drilling crank big ends and decent rod bolts. I would only do decent cams If upgrading from the VF34 . But it would be worth getting a hold of some STI cams to go with the valve train , I'm sure someone on here would have a set kicking around that they have upgraded.

Doing the valve train and buckets gives you the extra Rpm safely and later on if you want to do big cams you have the supporting valve train. I know you have said before you would be happy with low to mid 350 hp .

If you were deciding to do the rods and pistons route with your block, Make sure you have the big ends of the crank phase drilled if not done already. Value for money bang for buck hard to pass up the new rising sun SCDB short motors for the power your chasing .
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  #354  
Old 29-08-2015, 03:45 PM
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Cheers guys.

Cap wasn't on properly I have fixed that, and it is now pushing coolant into the o/flow bottle as per design, but after shutting it down, it just gets sucked back into the motor it seems, which is also normal.

I marked the o/flow so I could see how much it was pushing though, not sure what is acceptable here or not. Coolant is still clear with no signs of contamination. What is an acceptable amount of coolant to be pushing into the overflow?

I suppose if the o/flow gets full or starts pissing out of there, I know I have a h/g problem, which would also begin to cause evident overheating.

Zip tied the overflow so it definitely makes it there, as there were some signs of it leaking from here once the cap was on properly. Also found a fuel line clamp off the fuel filter that was broken, so replaced that, which probably would have resulted in smoke and flames if it had come off.

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  #355  
Old 29-08-2015, 05:11 PM
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Cant u just start the car from cold and watch if there is any bubble appearing on the radiator?

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  #356  
Old 29-08-2015, 05:23 PM
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Yeah, can do as another option, but don't trust that as a definitive measure. Bubbles would depend on the where and the extent of damage to the HG, too much chance of a false positive.

I don't appear to be losing coolant.

It may only be under boost that the HG is being compromised which is causing exhaust /cylinder pressure to bleed into the cooling system and add pressure to the cooling system which forces it into overflow. Not sure, guesswork at the moment.

There are of course better ways to tell which I will do if If my suspicions rise, leak down test etc.

For now i'm sitting on it to see how it goes and will inspect further as appropriate. There may be no issue and it's circumstantial / paranoia.

Just checking out those Rising Sun SCDB short motors though
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  #357  
Old 29-08-2015, 05:42 PM
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I am not too good at this kind of fault finding but have you checked to see if there is any peanut paste looking substances at the top of the dipstick, under oil filler cap or under radiator cap? This will show that you have oil and coolant mixing.
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  #358  
Old 29-08-2015, 05:59 PM
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Yeah done that today. Looks clear man, nothing obvious. Oil is clean from dipstick and around the cap.

Would need to drop it entirely to be certain but nothing obvious there at all.

Do Subaru's push coolant to the overflow under boost typically?

Never really had the inclination to look/notice, until now, only because the cap wasn't on correctly. So the whole thing may just be nothing.
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  #359  
Old 29-08-2015, 06:43 PM
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the only time i've ever seen a wrx push a decent amount of coolant into the overflow is when there's been a HG leak. i'm not saying they don't do it normally, just sayin'....

EJ207 ftw
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  #360  
Old 29-08-2015, 07:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichX View Post
Yeah done that today. Looks clear man, nothing obvious. Oil is clean from dipstick and around the cap.

Would need to drop it entirely to be certain but nothing obvious there at all.

Do Subaru's push coolant to the overflow under boost typically?

Never really had the inclination to look/notice, until now, only because the cap wasn't on correctly. So the whole thing may just be nothing.
Mine will do this a bit on a warm day at the track around 30*C ambient or warmer.
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