Hi Guys,

I've just finished installing a bit of a stereo upgrade in the wagon and was chasing some advise of the proper settings to get the most out of it and to ensure nothing is going to blow up!

Currently I've got the 12" Type R sub (SBR-S123V Alpine Electronics of Australia) running off a MRP-M605 amp. Along with the Type S splits (SPS-610C - Alpine Electronics of Australia) running off a MRX-F30 amp (Alpine Electronics of Australia)

The head unit is the Alpine W407 (http://www.alpine.com.au/files/current_owners_manuals_2/OMiXA-W407English.pdf)

I've currently got the M605 gain set at 1.5v (next option is 2.5v or 1v) with the LP Slope at 12db and the Subsonic Filter off, the LP Filter is around 80Hz. The amp also has a Bass EQ Adjustment which I've got at +10dB which seems high (the max is +16dB)

For the MRX-F30 running the fronts, I've set the Crossover Mode Selector to HP and turn up the gain slightly (maybe a 1/4).

Any advice or tips would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers

Stick a cd in it, play a song you like, fiddle with it until you like it.

Or if you are feeling wicked and lazy take it to a stereo shop who will charge you to do the same.

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Thanks teejay, that's basically what I have done, just wanted to ensure I'm getting the most out of it.

You can get more specific and get hold of testing CD's.

Getting the most out of it would be sound quality to taste?

If all the gear is new its going to take a bit of time for everything to loosen up for it to really pump.

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turn down amp gains to nothing, set deck to about 90% (eg 45 out of possible 50)
turn up amp gains till speakers clip, back off repeat for sub amp untill desired bass is achieved.

tuning for dumies 101

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Yes baby, I could be in the shed for a while!

Quick read of manual leads to:

The HU is 2V outputs. As such, with 1.5V amp setting will clip.

Sub crossover seems to be set in HU - no need for amp crossover. Don't try to match or double up as it Is unnecessary.

Take out the 10dB EQ on sub amp or were you aiming to have that frequency twice as loud?

Sub sonic is used to protect speakers. If ported box place just below port frequency or if sealed enclosure start at 30hz and adjust down to where nothing is gained sonically by going lower.

It's very rare for a average car sub to produce good bass below 30Hz. So why amplify frequencies that sound bad or won't be reproduced? In large concerts I often achieve better sounding bass by winding up the sub sonic filter allowing the amp/speaker to produce bass with better dynamics.

To get decent bass to 20Hz and below you need good driver extension you need decent sealed enclosures, better sub drivers and bigger amps. I have a HT Velodyne which easily does 20Hz but it is 1200rms/2000 peak into a 10" sealed enclosure with over 2 inch excursion.

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[COLOR=Black]Liberty GT Spec B tuned 240 HP & 372 Nm at the hubs.[/COLOR] "Instead of banning high performance cars - ban low performance drivers"

Didnt want to start a new thread, just about to go play with a couple of type x subs, speakers, v12 amps, a heap of 0-gauge, dis.blocks etc and a Rockford cap, I've done a couple of type r systems, this should be pretty similar, but any particular little things/tips?

I'm also chasing an alpine 1.400 pdx or similar, but am maybe considering this brand F100-5 CADENCE 5-CHANNEL AMP 1800 W MAX SUBWOOFER SPEAKERS COMPONENT AMPLIFIER | eBay
have some other cadence stuff, seems alright, cost next to nothing, like literally 1/4 of the price of even super cheap stuff
and even if it just go's in dads ute so i can take my old alpine stuff out haha

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my05 STi
my13 Rok

:)

LOL fuck 165 bucks for amp, 125 to ship, are they fucked in the head or something

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If you want a budget amp, check this:

Boss PH4.500 4-Channel Phantom Amplifier 2000W Car Amp | eBay

decent bridged RMS to run subs and good to run speakers.

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2005 WRX STI

I prefer budget in the sense to match the rest of the type x stuff - like the fell of the back of truck type, budget, haha
Already have v12's
just want to replace the sony p.o.s. amp that powers the mb quartz in doors currently- but will be upgraded to type x splits when a 'budget' set comes along

Pretty much all wired now,
Just need to plug in the cap and put new terminal on - which ill do after work tonight.
QQ: is it worth hunting down a battery charger to charge the cap before connecting it all up?
If i had one laying around i would, but i dont so i might have to borrow one - but does it really matter? Surely the car will just charge it up??

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my05 STi
my13 Rok

:)