Any had or heard Rainbow speakers before? I wanted a set of Vanadium Cross components but they are very pricey. Awesome reviews and allegedly play metal fantastically bit can't get a demo anywhere

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No more GC8, sad face.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

Techno is NO way to test a system bar frequency spread. ALL techno is compressed beyond recognition of what a dynamic range should be. It also, due to compression, puts an unrealistic strain on an amp.

Sound and it's reproduction is the ultimate mix of science and the black arts I, as many sound engineers and enthusiasts, could go on for days about the vagaries of recording and reproducing sound. I love it and despise it all at the time as it gives me joy and wants me to pull my hair out. I always respect it

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[COLOR=Black]Liberty GT Spec B tuned 240 HP & 372 Nm at the hubs.[/COLOR] "Instead of banning high performance cars - ban low performance drivers"

Now you can all see why you should never ask Andrew about speakers or music.

Something something prodigy big day out…



(Note the smiley face grumpy old man before launch)


using the Perth-WRX mobile app

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RS RA
The more people I meet the more I like my Dog!

12.463 1/4 mile, not bad for an old school Liberty [DECEASED]

MY08 Liberty Tuned by STi

From all reports over east and Car Audio Australia members the Rainbow Vanadium series were fantastic speakers. I have never known anyone to sell Rainbow speakers here in WA and whoever purchased from here did so on reputation. I'm fairly sure no-one is importing them into Australia and haven't done so for a few years.

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[I]trolololol[/I]

Seen

Simple version, listen to multiple speakers, choose favourite. Look at average power rating of the speaker.

Amps - Multiply speaker average rating by two. Look at amps with that average output, try various amps until best sound is achieved.

Go home - profit.

Headroom, read bigger horsepower is what saves speakers at volume. You WILL hear a speaker over extend. It's a bit like a pinging engine sort of obvious. Unlikely you'll notice an amp clipping. When an amp can't put out the necessary energy to push a speaker it holds the speaker in a fixed position at the the the nodes of the sound wave. No movement means heat build up - long enough time means melted voice coil. Next is Dead speaker.

*The above theory is so simplified. I for one run a time aligned and EQ'd car system with a 30w rated Sub with a 300W plus amp driving. I have also used my front HT speakers in the early days as studio monitors with 70W speakers being driven by Crown 600W monoblock amps. It's voodoo I tell you*

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[COLOR=Black]Liberty GT Spec B tuned 240 HP & 372 Nm at the hubs.[/COLOR] "Instead of banning high performance cars - ban low performance drivers"

I was unable to find anyone in Australia who sells them but did find a distributor. Obviously they don't sell a help of a lot so no stores stock them as they don't move the volume of say Alpine, et al. The model I was looking at is Vanadium Phase Plug Cross too, find a set on eBay for $800 delivered but anything car audio related on eBay is buy at own risk as there is so much fake gear on there...

Anyway here's the system Rob at Volatile put together for me but as yet I haven't moved forward on it.

Clarion VX603au double din source unit
Audison bit TEN D audio processor + DRC remote
Audison AD/AC Link board plus cables (full digital signal source to amp :-D)
audison Digital Audison AV5.1K amp 2x75wrms for tweeters, 2x140wrms for mid bass and 1x600wrms@4ohm or 1000wrms@2ohm for sub
Audison Voce AV6.5 front stage running active
Audison AV12 subwoofer in slot port enclosure
Dynamat the shizzen out of it

Similar system option was with Hertz Mille speakers, Hertz digital amps and twin 12" Hertz subs.

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No more GC8, sad face.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

Got my install going in on Tuesday (can't wait), been reading a bit about dynamat. Is this mainly for road noise etc? Much point in a noisey subaru with exhaust and high road noise from semi slicks etc.

Maybe just do the boot? Is there even any point?

One of the best things I have bought... Did the whole boot and the rattles have stopped (in the boot anyway) and I believe the spl has also increased. The bass is also a lot cleaner and sounds better.

Road noise is also reduced. So win win. You can get a bulk pack on eBay that's 60sq feet I think for the price of a dynamat door kit.

Got some left over if you want it? Would do a boot lid?
using the Perth-WRX mobile app

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2005 WRX STI

The stronger the enclosure with weight and dampening the less resonance and the more accurate the driver response.

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[COLOR=Black]Liberty GT Spec B tuned 240 HP & 372 Nm at the hubs.[/COLOR] "Instead of banning high performance cars - ban low performance drivers"

Big job to do the boot? How many hrs.