Advise when at WAW Tino. Would enjoy seeing drive shaft snapping.

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[COLOR=Black]Liberty GT Spec B tuned 240 HP & 372 Nm at the hubs.[/COLOR] "Instead of banning high performance cars - ban low performance drivers"

So just as expected after a visit to STechnic today we found that the exhaust manifold nut on the passenger side had completely come off causing half of the gasket to be ripped away.

Diagnosing this at race wars although we had our suspicions would have been futile as its a big task to just change the gasket, requires turbo off, exhaust etc etc.

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I'm a jockey kunts...

Any idea on how this occurred Tino? Did the exhaust get fouled on an object or simply massive torque twist caused the failure?

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[COLOR=Black]Liberty GT Spec B tuned 240 HP & 372 Nm at the hubs.[/COLOR] "Instead of banning high performance cars - ban low performance drivers"

lack of spring washers?

roflmao!

I would think that possibly the fastener chosen was incorrect for this application.

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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

Use nylocks! Haha

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Huge range of extinguisher brackets for cars!

http://kap.industries/

Sorry russ, not quite nylocs.

Hahaha!!!

what I would suggest is a "pinch" type nut available from Wurth, they are copper coloured and made for this type of application.

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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

Brought a laugh ... Mission achieved.

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[COLOR=Black]Liberty GT Spec B tuned 240 HP & 372 Nm at the hubs.[/COLOR] "Instead of banning high performance cars - ban low performance drivers"

This shit has happened to me a couple of times. Turbo swap, tighten the sucker up, all good on the street. As soon as you take it on the track & it gets really hot, bolts stretch, when it all cools down, nuts becomes lose & fall off. I lost 2 at Collie on the first outing after my last engine swap in the wagon.

Remedy? I found getting everything hot (3 full on laps at Barbs will do it), allowing it to cool down enough to get your hands close enough with welding / boiler makers gloves on, go back & torque everything back up.

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Cheers,

Simon.

They are OE Subaru stainless nuts, the problem is partially caused by the design of the headers preventing clear access to one of the nuts. The pipe snakes directly under the nut, it's the one right near the engine mount so it requires a bent spanner to get onto, limiting the amount you can tension it.
It's probably the sort of thing that will require more frequent re-tensioning.

Spring washers or Nyloc nuts won't deal with the heat. K nuts or Jet-Nuts might be an option but due to the very cramped access winding a locking fastener on half a flat at a time with a bent spanner, my tongue out trying to do it isn't my idea of fun.