clutch?? - Perth-WRX.com

GX-REX · #1 13-01-2008, 12:02 AM

Put the motor in my car over the last week or so. Today i set about bleeding the clutch. Got all the air out of the system but the pedal still sticks down at the floor. Had a look and it appears to me that the clutch fork has far too much travel. It is almost all the way up towards the engine before it feels like there is any tension. When i got the motor and box (over a year ago now) we pulled it apart to check condition of the clutch etc. Is it possible we have put the thrust bearing in back to front? Suggestions please... I really dont wanna pull the motor out again if i dont need to...

GX-REX · #2 13-01-2008, 10:00 AM

Ideas anyone??

Pimpreza · #3 13-01-2008, 10:28 AM

HaHa I did that once, out with the motor again LOL, take the rubber cap around the fork off or out the way & have a look in there with a torch, did you give the fork a good push toward the back of the box when you put the box back on?
Did you cable tie the fork toward the motor when bleeding it, we did my bug last week & it took ages.

GX-REX · #4 13-01-2008, 11:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pimpreza

HaHa I did that once, out with the motor again LOL, take the rubber cap around the fork off or out the way & have a look in there with a torch, did you give the fork a good push toward the back of the box when you put the box back on?
Did you cable tie the fork toward the motor when bleeding it, we did my bug last week & it took ages.

So what do you reckon i have done? Put the thrust bearing the wrong way around?
Didnt cable tie the fork towards the motor, there is no tension on the fork anyway.

Elrico · #5 13-01-2008, 11:31 AM

are you 100% sure you got all the air out of the system? I did the whole clutch bleeding thing with simmo7 week back and initially we cracked the nipple, pumped the shizen out, retightened the nipple and it was still falling to the floor. There was a second nipple attached to the slave cylinder that we cracked, pumped the peddle and retightened the nipple once again. It now has about 90% pressure, must still be a little bit in the lines that i need to expell still but eh, it works for now

GX-REX · #6 13-01-2008, 11:39 AM

yeah fairly sure i got all the air out. bled it from the master cyl first, then the bleed nipple near the drivers side strut and then at the slave. Should there be a return spring on the clutch fork at all?

urabus · #7 13-01-2008, 01:25 PM

When i bled mine I reckon i bled it about 20 time over a week long period while i was doing other things on the car.

I reckon you will just need to keep bleeding it.

Brendon

GX-REX · #8 14-01-2008, 08:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pimpreza

did you give the fork a good push toward the back of the box when you put the box back on?

Didnt do this. Do i just need to push the fork back towards the box to engage it? Should i be taking the slave out of the way first? I hope this is all i need do....

Pimpreza · #9 14-01-2008, 10:21 AM

Taken from RSLC, thank Doug - DT Rally

I know a lot of guys have trouble bleeding their Subaru clutch because the bleeder is at the lowest part of the cylinder and it's near impossible to get all the air out.
The traditional method also usually requires two people.
Reverse bleeding is easy to do on your own and will eliminate any air better than any other way I know. This is how we used to do MG's, Hillmans, Sunbeam Tigers and other brilliantly engineered British cars

Step 1/ Buy the biggest syringe the local chemist or Vet will sell you, 10 or 20cc works well.

Step 2/ use the syringe to suck all the old fluid out of the clutch reservior and wipe it clean.

Step 3/ push a short piece of 4mm clear tube (windscreen washer tube works well) onto the end of the syringe, pull it up full of brake fluid from a fresh bottle and expell any air by holding it vertically with the outlet upward. Be careful, brake fluid disolves car paint

Step 4/ put a 10mm ring spanner (never an open ender) on the slave cylinder bleeder, push the clear tubing onto the nipple, crack the bleeder 1/2 turn and slowly shoot the fluid in.

Step 5/ It is beneficial to also push the fork pushrod back into the cylinder at the same time and hold it fully in. This reduces the chance of air being trapped in the slave cylinder bore.

Step 5/ When the contents of the syringe are pushed through the system any air will bubble upwards into the reservior. It may require 2 or 3 syringe fulls to get the air all out. Just tighten the bleed screw each time you remove the syringe to recharge it. I leave the tubing connected to the screw and simply pull the syringe off the end, holding the hose end upward prevent fluid running out. When you re-connect the syringe simply draw a little fluid back from the line to capture any air introduced while it was disconnected. If you keep the syringe with the plunger upward, the bubble will float to the other end and it won't go back into the tube.

Step 6/ Top up the reservior with fresh fluid to the level mark.

Using this method it is not necessary to remove the cylinder and tilt it in any way. One person can do it easily. If you have a FMIC it's even easier to access the cylinder.

Pimpreza · #10 14-01-2008, 10:29 AM

Nah leave the slave there, did you look down the fork hole to see of it's in the right way around, I put one in the other day & the tube bit that's connected to the bearing faces forward & the hooks on either side of the bearing are open toward the front ........Good luck mate.