Don't ask why. Don't say get this stuff. Don't say your F*^KIN nuts. The stuff I have got is good shit and it is going in.

What I want to know is the distributor has suggested put one lot in ( or even cheep ass mineral shit from supercrap ) then do 100km and then change again.

Sounds like a good excuse to use twice as much of their oil to me but then again I like a good conspiracy theory.

Sound like horse shit or is there something in it about making sure the synthetic is good and gone when going back to mineral.

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Stoner & Webber 2011 World Champions

There will always be a residual trace of the synthetic in the engine regardless of whether you purge the system with 1 lot of oil or 20.
Unless the engine is stripped and cleaned you will have traces at some level.
It is ultimately up to you but I have had no drama's before doing the same.

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RIP POSSUM
3" Invidia Zorst

May I ask what oil is going in?

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...He said Smooth Bee the skins is fat
I don't beg cause I'm not in begonia
I dress warm so that I won't catch pneumonia
My rhymes are stronger than ammonia
I'm a diamond, you're a cubic zirconia

Like the song says..

Black and gold.. black and gold

ROFL

No not black and gold ULX110 10W40.

The oil Race Torque use is a 10W60 ( Agip or elf can't remember which). Good thing for doing track days but since I am off to Tassie and then one of the ski resorts ( most likely Buller ) I want something a bit thinner. Expect it to be bloody cold.

Also with the milage I will be getting a service from S&J in Adelaide before coming back and when booking in they asked if I was happy to use the ULX cos it is the only thing they use. S&J have a pretty good rep and a lot of the Adelaide boys seem pretty happy using it.

Make long story short it is what will be going in when serviced in Adelaide and I need to provide a thinner oil for the service before I go so I might as well put the same stuff in both times.

Probably most of the claims on ULX website are bunk but guess we will find out.

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Stoner & Webber 2011 World Champions

geez, using mineral oil AND waving the ECUtek flag..

You ARE game .

Anyways, back on topic. - i dont see why mixing the two would really effect it that much. I have heard of a few anal people doing this just a regular oil change to get as much of the old oil out as possible. No conclusive evidence of effectiveness though..

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Twin scroll Pig Bi-Squeeling

you can get engine oil flush from supercheap/anywhere. i've used it couple of times, just looks like some sort of detergent. add in to old oil and run for 10 minutes or until oil warmed up etc etc. dont know if it made any sort of difference but draining the oil it was much thinner. new oil appeared to stay cleaner a little bit longerand there weren't any negative effects so for 10bucks... ??

On the advice of Doug. I used 500ml of Diesel Fuel as my oil flush. added to my oil and let it idle for 15mins. Then I dropped my old oil, which flowed almost like water, and then cranked the engine with the ignitors disconnected for 10 secs to get as much oil out of the engine. Let it sit for a few hours.

I put fresh 10w40 Motul 300V in. That's actually slightly thicker than whats recommended for Gen1 Turbo Liberty/Legacy. Most people use 5w30 or 0w40. But I haven't heard a peep out of the lifters. Lifters were a common problem on early Libs. They get really noisy and even set off the knock sensor causing the ECU to retard the timing. Makes for a very sluggish car when the lifters are at their worst. But since the Diesel Fuel flush, no problems. Cheaper than that bottled stuff you buy from Auto stores.

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RS Liberty - Because WRX's are only good for parts...

The Diesel oil flush might be the go I think. Who is Doug though??? You make it sound like I should know him

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Stoner & Webber 2011 World Champions

Not Diesel Oil. Diesel Fuel.

Doug is dtrally

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RS Liberty - Because WRX's are only good for parts...