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  #11  
Old 12-12-2008, 06:58 PM
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Thanx for all the help guys, I'll get it sorted at the service next month. I'll get the pads done, if needed and wait till the rotors are stuffed before I get them changed. I'll get the better brake fluid put in too. and I might sneak in a CAI too

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  #12  
Old 15-12-2008, 05:29 PM
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Gday Zombee...

Ive just gone through this process for my car. (02 Sti). The general consensus I found for Sti's was either DBA 4K all round, or, 4K fronts - 650 rears for the rotors. (This is what I went with). (Or the 5K series if you simply 'must have' the top hats). With pads, there is a heap of choice. DS2500's, Ultimates, Elig's, Lucas, EBC or QFM. I went with new Elig pads all round, new braided lines, and some decent fluid. I already have an MRT brake master cylinder support brace - also a worthwhile mod to add to pedal feel. But yeah, hopefully all this will provide some 'face on the windscreen' stopping.

Oh, and its all a DIY job... seriously. Get ya hands dirty and have fun.... Its not a hard job

Brent.
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  #13  
Old 15-12-2008, 05:43 PM
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Really boils down to what you are going to use the car for...

Previously i ran stock rears and 5000s for the front with 2500's running on Motul 600 brake fluid... and they hold up well at AHG, Barbagallo's etc

Right now im running all stock rotors and they seem to pull up pretty well with no fade... Really depends on your driving style
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  #14  
Old 16-12-2008, 12:08 AM
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As Ferodos have gone up in price over the last year or so, check out Pagid Blues as well- much kinder than DS2500's on rotors!

All depends how much motorsport you'll actually be doing mate. And the most efficient way to obtain good braking under these circumstances is keeping the heat out... you can purchase all kinds of fantastic parts, but I've truly found there's no substitute for break ducting. My setup was running so cold, I had to remove it for short Sprints such as AHG because pads weren't getting warm enough!!
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