Can anyone on here do a cheapish respray on a few panels for us? Its just so we don't attract attention as we need our car.

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That guy gx-Rex can paint hence why he wanted pictures

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Ah thanks @munya. @Gx-Rex, what do you think? Would it be hard to respray a panel or two reasonably cheaply? Doesn't have to be like factory, just not draw attention. Mechanically the car is great and we want to keep running it. Is this the sort of thing you can do? Much appreciated.

That does not need a respray. That is oxidization of the paints surface. I have always been able to keep the paint on all my cars in perfect condition, no matter what age. (If anyone has seen my version 6 it looks like the paint is wet its that shiny).
Get yourself a paint cutting pad and a angle grinder. Fit the cutting pad. Go down to a paint shop (not supercheap). And get some good quality cutting compound. Cut the paint back twice.
Apply some kitten polish. Paint will look like brand new again.
It may not come back to showroom condition (as there are sections that are scratched and paint has pealed) but it will bring it back to a very decent condition.
Can be done for $50 compared to a $1000 respray

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STi Ver 6 | 2.1L Stroker | 418whp | 11.5 @ 199kph |

Not fast enough dammit!

This is very dangerous and makes me cringe. A dual action polisher with cutting compound is much safer. However I would recommend you try applying some Meguiars Ultimate Compound or ColourX by hand first and see how it comes up. You dont want to attack anything with power tools (let alone an angle grinder...) if you don't know what you're doing.

-Edit-
Just to add, not saying it wont work, but this sort of thing in the hands of somebody untrained can cause irreversible damage to the paintwork, so its best to start soft and work your way up from there, instead of let-er-rip, burn through the paint, and be stuck going oh shit and definitely needing the respray.

i did fail to mention that mate.... yeah you really do need to know what your doing. You can very easily take your car to bare metal if you havnt any experience in doing it.

There are quite a few car detailers around that will do a decent cut and polish for around the $200 mark. Thats all this car needs

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STi Ver 6 | 2.1L Stroker | 418whp | 11.5 @ 199kph |

Not fast enough dammit!

Have you look at the pics?

The boot is not going to cut and polish.

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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

It is, the white faded effect is the surface of the clear chemically eroded. Cutting a small layer off exposes the 'fresh' clear, or removes the eroded layer on gloss. My work colleague came round the other day with a BMW with a bonnet in worse condition than that, 30 minutes later, he drove off with a nice shiny bonnet.

You would be surprised what a cut and polish will do.

Obviously the pitting will still be there, but i doubt the owner of this car wants it back to showroom condition... just wants it cleaned up. I would even be willing to give this a once over on my front lawn if you dont live to far from me...

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STi Ver 6 | 2.1L Stroker | 418whp | 11.5 @ 199kph |

Not fast enough dammit!

Thanks heaps for these responses. I'm really grateful for the suggestions. VUSS (by the way I had one of those!) I had no idea this sort of work could be done for as little as $200. I was told it would be like $450 to respray just the one door! Might just have to take you up on your offer once I've had a go. I really want to learn how to do it. I am in Cannington.

I don't have any experience in this sort of stuff but you guys have inspired me to have a go myself. We were going to be given $1000 on this as a trade in so we decided to keep it as a 'second' car. The aim is to simply 'tidy' it up a bit and not have those weird marks look so ugly. We've been away for a few years and lent it to a family member and that's how it came back.

If I go lightly with some very fine wet and dry and then try the Meguiars Ultimate followed by some buffing would that be a good start? I do have access to a 1200watt car polisher which might help.

Once again thanks very much for your contributions.

Dave

Man I'm not getting into this but:

Start lightly, use gradients of polish, move to more aggressive cutting if needed, cutting agents can be very aggressive, using wet & dry sandpaper is VERY aggressive, once happy with results go back down the scale to achieve polished finish. Dual action polisher, make sure your pads are appropriate for the compound. Pads types effect the level of cut.

If I can hand polish off red spray graffiti paint off many panels on the barge that says a lot of what can be achieved without a machine.

Potential of fucking paint with angle grinder, aggressive pad, heavy cutting compound and inexperience ... High.

The professionals using the lightest high quality polishing compounds with a machine will remove between 1 to 2% of paint depth. It's easy to get it really wrong.

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[COLOR=Black]Liberty GT Spec B tuned 240 HP & 372 Nm at the hubs.[/COLOR] "Instead of banning high performance cars - ban low performance drivers"