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#21
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My link is tuned by speedworks and is the 10 row fuel and ignition one.... most peoples link cars drive like shit because they are 6 row and have antilag... if they got rid of the antilag Bling (bit of a rice mod for 99.9% of the time), they could have much better tune cars. My car does 400k's on a tank and has a pretty smooth power curve. Only link issue i have is the idle when cold is sometimes a little hesitant for first minute... other than that it does the job. I wouldn't ever have fitted one myself but as the car came with it I have just tuned it to suit.
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#22
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as it has been said. the ecu is only as good as its tuner
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deaded |
#23
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just wondering, with minor mods, would people still need it to be tuned?
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#24
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Quote:
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K.E.R.S!!!1 |
#25
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A full replacement ECU comes from factory with a basic map that allows you to start the car. its not something you just whack into the car and on the basis of "basic" mods assume that it will be running with the correct timing, AFR, etc
Why skim on the tune (around 600-800) for a potential engine rebuild that can cost up to 6-8k? |
#26
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Im a big believer in it comes down to the turner. Sean tuned my car to a nice 207kw atw @ 18psi at the woks hub dyno. The Auto salons main line dyno comp was a good example of mods against tuning. Orange GC8 with motec,greddy turbo + reverse manifold = mid 160 odd kw compared to my GC8 with link and VF turbo = just under 190 odd kw. proof is in the pudding
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MY99 WRX (WRXOTIC) sold MY02 STi (WRXOTIC) sold MY09.5 SSV ute |
#27
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Quote:
its not just the power output that is the key its the area under the curve... The old links are terrible when it comes to off boost and idling and they therefore have to be tuned fairly rich. which makes them a real pig to drive. |
#28
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Tino's a smart cookie, but yes Tristan, definitely keen for a drive. I'm always keen to be proved wrong
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I am only an asshole on the internet :) [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] |
#29
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Tino & TJ,
Links idle fine.. full stop. Reason most of them idle like shit is because tuners have either taken shortcuts and not setup the correct zones (tuners are only human). Easiest way to get it to idle right is to dump fuel.. simple.. effective.. but not the right way to go about it (IMHO) Link's have cold start, warm start and also enrichen's crank with a delay.. If you setup the correct values in each field.. it idles pretty darn good for a budget ECU. I've seen a few motecs not even idle right.. and some even reach 10.9 AFR's on warm.. Seen a few motec's even stall and cut out during cold start... Now i wont pipe up about which ecu's better.... but simple fact is that you can't expect a workshop to spend say 3 hours on idle.. unless you wanna pay for it.. Majority of people dont wanna hear from the workshop that they spent 3hrs on getting idle & crank (cold and warm start) right and say 45 minutes to getting a power run. |
#30
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I fixed my own idle setup... got it totally stable at 700rpm cold or hot... just have to play with the fuel zones and the overrun setting... if that is too much the cars idle will drop super slowly when u take foot off the power and put clutch in ..... but if its too little it will drop too fast and go to like 400rpm or stall and then creep up to your idel of 700-900.
You can adjust the cold start extra fuel setting and the volts extra electrical load extra fuel setting when the car has just started... on the hand controller zoom up to volts and whack it to like 20-25. (helps car idel when aircon is on and stezza etc). Also go to COLD xx'C 10 and adjust it upwards to increase the cold start.... then save the settings. Worked perfectly on mine.
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Tags |
ecu, fans, link |
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