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  #31  
Old 22-03-2008, 04:03 PM
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sometimes I even crack myself up... missed a page if that's any excuse and thought I was replying to RichX!
Quote:
Originally Posted by RichX
I am running 10w40 on a 100k motor .. When should one look at thickening up the oil a tad .. What grade is a little thicker than 10w40?
Now where was I,
Yeah RichX go start your own thread...
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Last edited by maddog; 22-03-2008 at 04:07 PM.
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  #32  
Old 22-03-2008, 04:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldy000
Hey,

I have a boost problem with my new motor, it came out of a 94 wagon.

My max boost is about 12psi, and sometimes when it reaches 12 it seems to get a fuel cut.

It seems the wategate solenoid seems to rapidly open and close when you start the motor and also when its on boost.

It doesnt come up with an error in the computer, I am using the JAP computer and AFM etc. I have measured the voltages and resistances in the wires and this appears to be fine with the manual. I have tried swapping the units around but it occurs on both solenoids.

Does anyone have any ideas what the problem may be?

Thanks. Stu.
The My94 uses a bigger TD05 turbo, so you may want to check that 12psi isn't just target boost for that model. Other than that, look for a boost leak in the pipework between the turbo, I/C, boost solenoid, etc. Also double check your boost gauge is actually reading accurately (get it calibrated).

Other than that, on the oil, as I said earlier, use decent oil that's at least 10W30, pref 10W40 grade. 10W60 is probably too heavy when hot, but if you're towing boats, trailers, etc then it'll only help protect the engine!

Also, regularly change (7-10K) the oil if you're driving hard (track, heavy hauling loads or ultra dust/sand environments).

It's all about preventative maintenance with boxers.
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  #33  
Old 22-03-2008, 08:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldy000
Hey Guys,
He also had a twin turbo legacy long motor that he would give me for $1500. He said this was a popular swap for the single turbo block because the twin turbo block had higher compression. Does anyone know if this is true?

I'm also considering pulling it apart and taking the crank to a shop to get machined to fit an oversized bearing. Obviously i will do all the bearings while i'm there and check cylinders/pistons etc.

Opinions?
Cheers
Stu.
Stu the Legacy/Liberty B4 twin turbo for $1500 is an interesting option. They did run a higher compression ratio of 9:1 and reportedly had some other nice internal parts. Try asking Fred at Swan Subaru & Daihatsu Auto Parts in Kenwick about these as they had a few in the past. I think they had the STi bucket over shim and sodium filled valves along with STi Forged Pistons. The heads alone are worth $1500. You will need to swap all your existing sensors to make it work. I am not 100% sure so best you check the engine specs from the part numbers. Also do not rely on any supplier to confirm what is inside the engine. Caveat emptor.
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  #34  
Old 22-03-2008, 10:40 PM
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Sorry maddog but i have already brought a 94 wagon half cut from JWS, and have installed the motor. I am having troubles as i have said above somewhere, boost problems, but im in the grooling process of trying to match the intrument panels, as my old rex was eletronic speed sensor, this one is cable. and also many of the wires dont match.

thanks anyways.
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  #35  
Old 23-03-2008, 05:48 AM
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Can i ask why you didn't go for a more modern engine? Was it purely cost or timing? If cost, I'd say the time spent reworking all the connection would easily outweigh the extra cost of a plug in solution??!?!
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  #36  
Old 23-03-2008, 07:26 AM
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Well i didnt really anticipate this many problems but hey. Also my car has 230k on it, whats the point of spending alot on a brand new engine when the car body isnt going to last the life of the engine. Soon itll rust, doors will sag etc.

My new engine/gbox had 88k on it and i figured that it was young enough. Also this job hasn't exactly been cheap either.
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  #37  
Old 23-03-2008, 07:50 AM
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Which turbo are you using? I seem to remember someone saying the early wagons had a smaller turbo on them. I would have thought you would just use the instrument cluster in your car and just put the speedo sensor into the jap gearbox where the cable screws in, its a direct fit. Should be a heck of alot easier than my conversion anyways.
Personally i would put the computer back to the aussie one and see what happens.
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  #38  
Old 23-03-2008, 09:10 AM
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Nah, wasn't really meaning brand new engine. But if yours is an MY00 (from name??) then why not get a 99/00 engine from a wrecker and drop that in?

Appreciate it's not a low cost exercise, just that the cost seems to be time now which ultimately equates to $$'s
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  #39  
Old 23-03-2008, 09:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpitts
Nah, wasn't really meaning brand new engine. But if yours is an MY00 (from name??) then why not get a 99/00 engine from a wrecker and drop that in?

Appreciate it's not a low cost exercise, just that the cost seems to be time now which ultimately equates to $$'s

Quote:
Originally Posted by oldy000
Hey Guys,

This is my first post on p-wrx.

I have a 95 wrx wagon which I have had for about 5 months.......

does anyone on this forum read previous posts !!!!
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  #40  
Old 23-03-2008, 11:38 AM
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Thanks there lebrunt, it's been a while since I originally responded to this thread a month and a half ago (see post 1 on page 2). Seems I've forgotten exactly the model oldy000 has. Guess it happens.
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