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  #11  
Old 29-08-2005, 09:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRPI0
Ok, i found really good instructions. I know that the black wire connects to the negative battery terminal but what does it mean when it says that the white wire connects to the "12 volt wire when lamp on"?. also i have seen that the rubber tube is meant to be connected between the surge tank and the fuel regulator, is this correct?
I don't mean to sound mean, but if you don't understand those instructions, then please don't risk a $50k+ car over a boost gauge. And please DO NOT connect the rubber tube anywhere near the fuel pressure reg or surge tank. The jap instructions you have has been translated literally and does not read correctly. It means the plenum chamber by saying surge tank.

I understand the need to DIY, both to save some bucks as well as a personal satisfaction of doing something yourself, but if you set off the airbag or worse, it'll be a world of hate! It just isn't worth it.

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  #12  
Old 29-08-2005, 09:10 PM
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WOAH!

I'll admit i have NFI about cars, but i thought mechanical boost gauges are much simpler than that..

Do you have a spare nipple on the manifold for the rubber hose to go to? I know on GC8 we get one This allows your gauge to read vacuum / boost
Nipple "cover" comes off and rubber tube goes on. Simple, hardest part is probably feeding tube thruough firewall grommet! Thats if you have the spare nipple...

AFAIk, the wires for a mechanical boost gauge only allow the light to be switched on. Shouldnt go to the battery terminal or anything, should it?
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  #13  
Old 29-08-2005, 09:28 PM
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I will probably get someone to do it for me because to be honest i just dont understand the process involved and as technik said its not worth risking it
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  #14  
Old 29-08-2005, 09:57 PM
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black wire goes to chassis for earth, white wire jacks of your foglight switch wire under the dash (purplewire) so that the gauge lights up when you turn your lights on.

If you dont have a spare nipple on your intake manifold jack a t-piece of your vacume line to the BOV and connect your vacume line to that.

otherwise someone here should do it for you for a carton of beer.
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  #15  
Old 29-08-2005, 10:38 PM
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dont use wire jacks unless ur uber dodge...just looks shit.

u need a test light, go under the dash and find a wire that has a current when you turn the parkers on...and off when u have them off

and find a good earth.
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  #16  
Old 30-08-2005, 11:02 AM
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Cheers guys i have found everything perfectly thankyou for spelling it out so simply for a mechanical noob. Now one last thing, after i put the tube through the grommet into the under dash part of the cabin do i just drill a hole on the top of the dash in the corner for the tube to come up to into the gauge pod like below?
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  #17  
Old 30-08-2005, 11:11 AM
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Not sure about this one, came across the same situation this morning when i tried to install my gauges.. From what i can gather, you can simply take off the side part of the dash and feed the hose down through the dash so its hidden and neat.

Only problem is i faced (before i got bored & i gave up) is i couldnt figure how to get the side part off and i didnt want to break anything!

Shouldnt have to drill or anything
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  #18  
Old 30-08-2005, 11:18 AM
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What gauges are you putting in Mat?
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  #19  
Old 30-08-2005, 11:24 AM
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Blitz ones. Oil pressure and boost

Easy enough to install the gauges, just couldnt figure how to remove the side part of the dash.. Undid a few screws so who knows.. Maybe i just needed to spend a little more time on it

Im sure its simple though and saves wrecking your dash / pillar
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  #20  
Old 30-08-2005, 12:02 PM
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dooooooont drill holes in ure dash ull regret it, dash cannot be replaced, a-pillers can. Take the rubber seal off ure door jamb bit and feed the vacuum hose up the side of the dash, then squish the seal back on... Use some conduit to cover any exposed vacuum hose and wires on the dash.
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