Hi to all

i need to get my motor and gearbox out as I have done my bottom end. IM so Proud of myself and im putting in a motor i purchased from JAP wholesale. so does anyone have some instructions i can follow that will give me the best method of what to remove first etc. so i can do the job as quickly as possible and i dont kill the car. I have never this before so its a learning experience. I already have one of those workshop manuals and my drive is a MY02 WRX. Im not stupid with mechanicals but lacking in some experience. so any suggestions will be appreciated.

Please dont post any suggestions of taking it to a garage. I dont have the money to spend and even if i did i wouldnt as i want to learn to do it myself. I know the places around town and the quality of work you get, there is no issue there, im just old school and want to learn how to do it myself.

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If it's not on, it's not on

body lift and remove the whole assembly from underneath the car.

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Long live the WRC

Stace is 100% right. To expand a little best to leave the hubs attached etc just undo the strut tops. Take the intercooler off.

It is a lot easier than you think to drop the whole thing out.

When you are ready to drop it back in basically you put the engine on the ground and then drop the chassis back on top and then lift the engine up so you can get underneath and bolt it all back up.

Take heaps of pictures before you start pulling it apart so you have some idea where everything like hoses / plugs etc should go.

Me and one other managed to put my engine back in in 1 night after work. Then another night to hook everything back up and then fired her up....

Good luck....just take your time and you'll be fine.

Most common tools are:

10mm - Turbo heat shield etc
12mm - Factory top mount / prop shaft
13mm - Clutch cover only
14mm - Nuts on the back of the turbo / prop shaft cover / gearbox mounts / bell housing
17mm - engine braces
19mm - engine braces

Might pay to get a bit of pipe to slide over your breaker bar cause some of them bolts are bloody tight.

Drown the turbo bolts / nuts in loctite freeze and release... Will make them a lot easier to get off.

If yours is anything like mine you will also need to get a tap because some of the captive nuts need a clean up. From memory they are a slightly weird pitch of 1.25.

Also if you work in an office etc go and buy a pair of mechanics gloves....this shit is gonna get dirty........

Also have a look at the rear main seal when you swap the clutches over. They cost less than $20 and you will never get a better opportunity to swap them over.

Hope this helps a little.

Brendon

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Losing is worse than death. You have to live with losing....

cool as thankyou for all that advice im sure it will save me time and money. ultimately i will do a better job.

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If it's not on, it's not on

Why pull the gearbox out? if you're just changing the engine, just remove the engine, easier, quicker and less likely to fug something up.
Leave the A/C compressor connected to the lines so you don't have to regas it, leave the P/Steering pump connected to the lines so you don't make a mess. It would take an hour to go through it step by step but see if you can get some help.

i need to service the gearbox while its out, might take a look at the synchro's getting alot of crucnching between 3 and 4 almost all the time when i give it some shit. i know i can change the oil and that will probably help although i might aswell have a look while its out.

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If it's not on, it's not on