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  #11  
Old 22-11-2008, 07:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [REXZIST]
EJ207, that is all
Very strong bottom end that already has forged pistons, semi-closed, supports 350awhp all day, everyday, doesn't need modified or special head gaskets, doesn't require machining etc etc. Cheapest and best way to go about it IMHO. Spend your money on getting air & fuel into and out of the cylinder heads. I'm talking 264 cms, porting, decapped injectors, fuel pump, headers.

'Nuff said
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  #12  
Old 22-11-2008, 09:55 PM
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Hmm, so many decisions!
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  #13  
Old 22-11-2008, 10:34 PM
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i think your best bet is to slap a fresh EJ207 short motor into your car and be done with it. installed and tuned properly they can support 400+ hp and 2bar+ boost. As above, arleady got forged pistons, semi closed etc.

ps, if you think boring a 2L gives thin walls, look at a 2.5 block..
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  #14  
Old 23-11-2008, 07:17 PM
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Fresh EJ207 for the win.

P.S. semi-closed deck blocks have absolutely zero cooling issues....you'll know what I'm talking about if you ever look at one in person, the "semi closed deck" part of the block (the reinforcing ribs that are attached between the block and the bores, don't inhibit coolant flow at all.
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  #15  
Old 23-11-2008, 07:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chee
Geoff,
why not get a ej20 block from a RS? closed deck from factory. bore that out to 2.2.
Reality check:
Ok the RS EJ20 Fully Closed block is called an EJ20G for starters. An EJ20G block has a few short falls that people should be aware of.
1) They are rare and getting fairly old.
2) They take a Phase I crank. These only have 48mm wide big end bearings as opposed to the phase 2 EJ20K at 52mm.
3) These also have the main thrust bearing at no 3 position instead of the no 5 position. This can cause crank walk... a not so good experience.
4) Cranks are not as readily available or as well priced as they are for the phase 2.
5) Making a stroker motor, i.e using a Phase 1, 2.5 L crank, with the EJ20G requires custom rods...a not so cheap experience.
6) They come standard at a bore of 92 mm, a 2.2 is 97mm from memory. This leaves very little room for error and I suggest would need to be sleeved to be safe. Boring out a fully closed block until it needs sleeving defeats the reason why you had a fully closed block to start with.
7) The EJ22T is the block of choice, and readily available in the States, alternately a closed deck EJ25 can now be sourced...try ESP in Canberra
8) An EJ20G has oil squirters that provide a spray of oil to the underside of the pistons. Many believe these just lower oil pressure and do very little else.
9) An EJ20G can be modified to take a phase II crank, at an extra cost of approximately $700 in Perth, ref Leigh H. @ RMS. Ouch!
10) An EJ207 is ready to go with a Phase II crank

By using a factory assembled semi closed EJ207 short motor that comes complete with a phase 2 crank, forged pistons, strong rods, OEM tolerances and quality for $2500 it is never going to be beaten for value. An EJ20G with a few other nice bits can still beat it on performance.
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  #16  
Old 23-11-2008, 07:49 PM
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Awesome info. Thanks! EJ207 sounds win! :-D
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  #17  
Old 23-11-2008, 07:58 PM
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If your going a EJ207 - u better buy one quick while they are still selling at $3500 (if theres any left).

When subaru orders another bunch - there gonna be nearly double becoz of the dollar
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  #18  
Old 23-11-2008, 09:16 PM
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Cheap 207 & gasket here if you're quick - http://www.rexnet.com.au/forum/index...howtopic=94170
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  #19  
Old 23-11-2008, 09:25 PM
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good price!
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  #20  
Old 23-11-2008, 09:43 PM
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That is an extremely good price.. given how much they are going for at Subaru. Be quick Geoff!
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