I have heard very good things re Brian Crower gear. A lot of people in the US running the brian crower gear and not one bad comment that i have heard so far. I guess your sourcing these parts from a place called Real Street Performance??

[QUOTE=Serbaru;509845]I have heard very good things re Brian Crower gear. A lot of people in the US running the brian crower gear and not one bad comment that i have heard so far. I guess your sourcing these parts from a place called Real Street Performance??[/QUOTE]

I'm looking at several sources atm, RSP just had some good examples of 'kits' & pricing.

Japanparts is a goer too.

Plus I still need to find a dokked 207 before I can start ordering anything....

[QUOTE=Rossco;509847]I'm looking at several sources atm, RSP just had some good examples of 'kits' & pricing.

Japanparts is a goer too.

Plus I still need to find a dokked 207 before I can start ordering anything....[/QUOTE]

ah ok, i have seen a V5 EJ207 on ebay, have a look.

[URL="http://cgi.ebay.com.au/1999-STI-WRX-Version-5-engine-/370453737288?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5640c36f48#ht_619wt_1139"]http://cgi.ebay.com.au/1999-STI-WRX-Version-5-engine-/370453737288?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5640c36f48#ht_619wt_1139[/URL]

Mine (albeit 2.5) was rebuilt with JE pistons, SCAT H beam rods, ARP studs, OE STI head gaskets but not sure of the bearings used. So far so good and the JE pistons are fine...not noisy at all.

I've used JE pistons in a rebuild of an '02 STi. I agree with Nauli, very quiet, just like OE. Steer clear of the ACL forgies, may have been poor clearancing by the machine shop but very rattly when cold.

Good call on the moderate power! Those gc8's are so light they dont need spastic power.

Subscribed.

[QUOTE=RUSSGT;509932]Good call on the moderate power! Those gc8's are so light they dont need spastic power.
[/QUOTE]

pffft :)

best of luck with the project Rossco!

[QUOTE=johnvk7;509878]I've used JE pistons in a rebuild of an '02 STi. I agree with Nauli, very quiet, just like OE. Steer clear of the ACL forgies, may have been poor clearancing by the machine shop but very rattly when cold.[/QUOTE]


Acl's are hyperuretic 'semi forged'....would not use.

[QUOTE=RUSSGT;509932]Good call on the moderate power! Those gc8's are so light they dont need spastic power.

Subscribed.[/QUOTE]

I want to build the midrange punch more, hence the milder cams / tame turbo so I don't have to rev the guts out of it to get it moving.

This build will be slow going, I'm only budgeting to spend $600 a month towards it, so if it takes me 5 months to finish it so be it.

I will be documenting it though.

I still need to find a useable block & crank to get started, I can't order slugs or bearings until I know where I'm at with a shortblock.

I was considering doing an Rs block, but the added expense of having the block machined to take a later model rear thrust crank was off putting.

Roscco sounds good mate..

I would go with the pauter rods, although with the power u want should be alright with a cheaper alternative..

Oil pump 12mm is the way to go.. I think all the cosworth one is got an extra shim in it to make more pressure and they machineed the burs from the casting etc..

But tony knight did this all for me= much cheaper than cossie.

Personally though id just get a 207 new shortblock.. as it will cost u more to rebuild ur one for no real actual gains..

I'm doing all the work myself Tino. (excluding any machining required)

I'd go Pauter rods if I was building a monster, but I'm not, the stock rods are probably more than durable enough. Adding Manley or Crower is just a little more insurance....More critical will be the clearances I use.

Pauter H-beam are the same price as the Crower, Crower are safe up to 175hp per rod, Pauter x-beam are the killer exxy ones (& suposedly safe for 1000hp!).

Car is always going to be 99% street, 1% trackday warrior.