check ur plugs or might be weak spark

Yea i need to do that, ill do it when i got the proper tools... Dont think i have the right size tool for spark plugs and i dont wanna buy leads for 150 when there not needed

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[CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Built Ej207: Semi-closed RA Cases - Wiseco Forgies - Manley rods - BC 272 cams - GDA Heads - billet f/whl - Vi-pec - WbO2 - 800cc Yellow tops - TD05-20G - 409Hp ath @ 1.75bar on E85[/COLOR][/CENTER]

thanks rossco =D

And also, just adjusted my boost controller, then went for a drive, drove like a dream but revs still dropped down to 200 which is boost/vacuum leak which i can find later, even though i adjusted my boost controller the wrong way and i hit 20 psi by accident (don't worry no damage done) it red lined like a dream and it didnt shutter at all, so i might just be in the market for a new boost controller.

And now a question, why do boost controller's have a ball bearing in them?

Why is it that my boost controller opens up on boost when i tighten the boost adjuster nut all the way down? does this mean its kind of like a gas bottle fitting?

My boost controller looks exactly like this one but blue... http://www.google.com.au/imgres?imgu...w=1024&bih=673

You have a boost 'T' they are shit! end of story.

Get yourself a Greddy Profec B (www.visionr.com.au) or any other electronic boost controller & you won't keep having these issues.

P.s no need to red line it, it will be quicker if you shift just above 6000 rpm..

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[CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Built Ej207: Semi-closed RA Cases - Wiseco Forgies - Manley rods - BC 272 cams - GDA Heads - billet f/whl - Vi-pec - WbO2 - 800cc Yellow tops - TD05-20G - 409Hp ath @ 1.75bar on E85[/COLOR][/CENTER]

Yea i know i dont have to i was just checking if it would still do it at any rpm

even a unichip + tune would be better than a mbc/boost t

Redlib gave me a hand this morning an put one of his old boost t's on it coz mine is shit, just until i could get home and sort out the factory boost controller... Once said factory boost controller it dd the same problem but with redlibs old boost t it ran like a dream (minus the dropping to 200 rpm on idle and almost stalling) which is a misfire of some sort.

Im hoping the misfire is caused my leads or plugs, but he also said it could be a burnt valve of some sort...

I'm astonished

Isn't there a thread about this exact same problem, on this exact same car, already?

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F.B. Racing
01 WRX (STI badged)
2010 XR5 Focus
06 Impreza Hatch 2.0i