Cheers

16 psi isnt enough to justify a colder plug. If you go colder, the car CAN become harder to start in some cases.

PFR-6Bs should be just fine, but just make sure the plug gaps are closed down a tiny bit for the slight increase in boost, as running too far a gap with higher boost can see the spark blowing out and the car misfiring.

What is the gap on the PFR-6Bs? Is it 11? and if so what gap do you recommend? 9? 10?

P.S. While we're on the subject, what HT leads do you guys recommend?
My car is just a little hessitant at the moment and want to do plugs and leads at the same time. I've just run some upper engine cleaner through it but it's no better.

Cheers

SC TER

Hmm, not sure how true this is, but when I replaced my plugs with iridiums, I was told (by NGK) that you should never gap iridium plugs, they can remove and crack the material on the tip.

As for leads, I went down this road and trust me, the middle of the range type leads (top gun etc) aren't what they are cracked up to be. Measured some leads that were the same length and the resistance in all of them were VASTLY different. I went with OEM leads at the end, they aren't cheap but they measured almost perfectly. Also plenty of high powered (and high profile) cars on this forum that make a heck of a lot more hp then I do still use them, so it can't be all bad...


Darren

__________________
When in doubt, Pull it out...

well they are gold and have like a protecting clover shape bottom. i had mine put in for 100 bux at M.A.D enhansments. they made to last to 100 000kms. just need to clean them now and again. i get abt 480-500kms out of a full tank.

well my friend at MAD put the iridiums and the atomic to the test and to see how they both spark.
iridiums : fast and sharp little sparks sound like "tik tik tik tik"
atomic: bits slower then the iridiums but more power and loud i'm guessing would be more effective sounds like back fire from car. "pow pow pow"

thats abt all i know.

Diggin up an old thread...

Im new to the whole boxer concept and need to replace plugs and cables, any easy way of going about it? special tools?? or do i just simply need 4 hours and rip half the engine apart to get to them?

Just need a spark plug socket and a ratchet with one of those knuckle adaptors in between, so the ratchet can clear the chassis rails.

Anything in the way is quick and easy to remove anyway, should be able to do the whole spark plug change within 30 mins.

cheers mate, are NGK PFR-6B that you've suggested irridium plugs?

Yep

Cant go past the NGK Laser Irridium Spark Plugs

I'm running NGK Iridiums .. All good ..