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  #11  
Old 05-07-2012, 06:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saint_23 View Post
Is there any downside/increased risk of component failure from doing this?
As with any mod, always an increased risk of something going wrong, in this case, fairly unlikley it would or could be a direct cause of a failiure, unless the the car was on a shit tune to start with...

I would recommend a retune for anyone doing more then 1.2 bar boost, as yes- this will cause boost to come on earlier and hold onto it longer.

Wrx and sti bovs are the same.
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  #12  
Old 05-07-2012, 08:08 AM
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Ran this mod on my old MY05 with great success! 2 bar is your friend guys
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  #13  
Old 05-07-2012, 08:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STI325V6 View Post
What size grub screw?
Looks like an M6?

Nice one Stace! Will try this too!
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  #14  
Old 05-07-2012, 08:34 AM
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Great mod for any 99+ models. What is the general consensus on the factory plastic unit on the V3/4?
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  #15  
Old 05-07-2012, 08:49 AM
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Lend any credence to the "crushing" mod for a stock bypass valve to hold more/higher boost?
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  #16  
Old 05-07-2012, 01:47 PM
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From memory its a 3/8th grub screw. I have bag full of them left over at home after we did mine, staces, ballstics. I also bought a good tap & die kit. So while this "cost" me more than $10, its about $0.60 for the actual part.

and yeah, noticeably snappier throttle/boost response. Will try find the exact part tonight
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  #17  
Old 06-07-2012, 10:48 AM
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Also you might just want to dab a drop of loctite thread locker on the thread.
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  #18  
Old 06-07-2012, 11:47 AM
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I'm gonna do this today....Is it worth it on a stock car?
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  #19  
Old 06-07-2012, 12:04 PM
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^ wondering same thing
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  #20  
Old 06-07-2012, 12:15 PM
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I read this as it's only applicable for when the car has been tuned past 1.2 bar (17.4 PSI) because the diaphragm is still holding pressure at anything under 1.2 bar.

I think I'll ask RT to do this when my VF34 is fitted and tuned next month though, cheers for the tip!
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