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  #21  
Old 09-03-2014, 10:22 PM
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i am not ignoring the question, fail to see how its related thought..

Sydney based tuner, I don't want to bring their name into this. I dont mind if i sound like an idiot?? but i am not going to drag someone elses rep into this.

I have a powerfc and the place I went to is well known in the local scene especially the with the powerfc and many japanese race cars.
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  #22  
Old 09-03-2014, 10:23 PM
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ill have a look for it Rocco.

yep I was about to do a tooth count, i am using the STI pink belt.

Last edited by Dscott; 09-03-2014 at 10:26 PM.
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  #23  
Old 09-03-2014, 10:24 PM
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How to dial in cams:

Sole Purpose of Degreeing Your Cam
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Built Ej207: Semi-closed RA Cases - Wiseco Forgies - Manley rods - BC 272 cams - GDA Heads - billet f/whl - Vi-pec - WbO2 - 800cc Yellow tops - TD05-20G - 409Hp ath @ 1.75bar on E85
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  #24  
Old 09-03-2014, 10:26 PM
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What was your peak power & peak torque?
Was it a hub or wheel dyno?

I'm just interested as a comparison to my motor/cam set up

P.s The name is RoSSco
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Old 09-03-2014, 10:29 PM
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sorry Rossco misread - ya lets talk about comparisons on pm, i am very curious about yours aswell.. i am using 1000c injectors. areant the 440 maxing out?
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  #26  
Old 09-03-2014, 10:50 PM
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The 440's are fine to 1.6 bar - above 1.6bar I dump the AFR's to 10:1 for safety - that maxes them momentarily but the AFR's stay at 10:1 as mapped.

I'll go to 800's next.
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  #27  
Old 10-03-2014, 06:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossco View Post
Do a tooth count as per workshop manual and re-mark the belt - Dayco belts have incorrect markings.
Trying this as soon as possible!
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  #28  
Old 11-03-2014, 09:15 AM
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Sounds to me- If you have fitted the belt as the marks on the out side of of the wheels eg the info Rossco posted the cam timing should be good !
just check that again covers off hand rotate the engine until it all lines up again

If the cams were set ether open and closing times or lobe center don't play with that ! as that would have taken some time to do

So the air gap at the cam sensor - usually it just will not run but check it
Crank angel sensor failing - will give the fault you are describing
So if you can swap it with a friends to test it out

very easy to do one bolt and a plug

also check the wires as the insulation fails due the heat at the crank and cam sensors
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  #29  
Old 11-03-2014, 11:11 AM
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"So the air gap at the cam sensor - usually it just will not run but check it
Crank angel sensor failing - will give the fault you are describing
So if you can swap it with a friends to test it out"

I am glad you picked this up. Yes exactly right ,there was an air gap and now there isn't.. not sure iif this is throwing the tune??

We did turn the motor over by hand and the lines do indeed line up. All that's left to do from timing belt perspective is to count the teeth now i guess..

I did notice there is now a small crack in the cam sensor (around the bolt hole only) when I nipped it back up.. i cant see how that will cause any issues? I don't know anyone with same heads as me, would an EJ207 cam sensor work? (mine is EJ20K) btw- the engine check light is NOT on. wouldn't it be?

appreciate your advice.
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  #30  
Old 16-03-2014, 12:52 PM
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Solved: replaced the cam sensor (with a non-turbo cam sensor) and now it runs like a dream.

Correction, ran like a dream. however, . I still notice a heavy surge at around 2500RPM, jerkness. type feeling... every now and then...

I don't get it, it doesn't do it all the time either, OK drove 25kms and it did it once..

FARK I AM OVER IT! I will swap out the spark plugs and coil pack + clean MAF, if no change I am taking it to a shop!

Still no error codes. Ill do a manual error check while i am at it i guess..

Last edited by Dscott; 18-03-2014 at 05:11 PM.
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