Hey everyone,

This is my first post here, sadly it's in the service area. :P
I am from Romania and I drive a EUDM '97 WRX, EJ20G engine,
it has a few mods, dyno shows peak hp at 251.
Mods:
- sti gearbox and rear diff
- new age brakes
- sti turbine
- silicone tubing for intake
- k&n air filter using the stock airbox, not the mushroom kind
- autobahn88 100mm intercooler top mount
- Running 1.1 bar boost.

Recently changed all fluids and oils, sadly my work hours are crazy so I had my old man take it in to the shop, would have love to been present, alas I still need to eat at the end of the day.
After changing the oil/coolant shop did not warn me of any foaming or mixing of coolant and oil. Also I did not notice a drop in the oil/coolant levels before servicing so I doubt it's a head gasket issue.

Now, on to my issue:

It's started snowing here so I've been taking the Subaru to work lately. It's a 120 km commute including the return trip.
Now the car runs lovely after finally fixing a boost leak that has been eluding me for 6 months, but I notice it runs very hot when stuck in traffic, which does happen when I get close to my destination.
After 15 mins or so the temp gauge slowly creeps up to maximum it can show, about 3 quarters up I usually have to pull over and let it cool or get moving really fast, whichever comes first.
After starting to move the temp drops down to around half.

It might also be worth noting that the cluster temp sensor might be going bad as it stutters like crazy under load, for example if I start pushing 130-140km/h it will rapidly jitter between zero and my current temp.
My engine is the kind with two coolant temp sensors, one for the ECU and one for the cluster so I'm not too worried about it.
It will get replaced next time it goes in to the shop for some electrical work (my rear defroster is not working).

Could it be my fans? I swear I never hear them coming on.
I've checked the fuse and it seems ok and I'm at a loss at what else I can do to check. It's pretty cold out too, so I would need to let it idle for like 20 mins or so to see if it happens.
Is there any way to force the fans to come on, to at least see that they work?

Sorry for the long post and any insight is appreciated.

R.

Edit:

So I took the car out for a mid-night drive on backroads where I would only wake up forest animals with that grapefruit launcher I have for an exhaust.
I still get engine stall after coming off of hard boost. I tested to see if it would stall while being still, revved it all the way to red, never dropped below 900 so my next suspect is that ricer bov the car came with when I bought it.
It's an HKS, supposedly, but I suspect it's one of those Chinese knockoffs.
I'm planning to fashion some sort of delete "flange", I will probably end up using one of those PVC plugs with the lip to keep it from getting sucked in and fashion a system to hold it down using a collar and some zip ties.
OR the more elegant solution, use one of those expandable boat drain plugs with the expandable rubber gasket.
Should I get a tune for a BOV delete or can I test it out as is, thing is I don't know if the guy that I got the car from had it tuned with a bov to lean out the fuel mixture during throttle off.

Would the knock sensor retard the timing to compensate for anything safely?
I've been thinking about a delete for a long time since I don't particularly like the ricer sound it makes, BUT love the turbo surge.
Wearing out the turbo isn't a big deal since I plan on taking this old engine to 300 horse come spring, which would likely include a bigger turbo, fmic and so on. Get what I can out of it and if it throws a rod I'm prepared to plop a 205 or 207 in it, financially speaking.

Appreciate the help

R.