95 manual impreza with ej20g sti swap
battery relocated probs not relevant

I'll start from the very start
when I first started having problems all it was doing was after being left overnight I got crank start stutter dies
then start stutter dies then start and all good then all good all day

I thought it was a dying battery not holding charge as I have a turbotimer that I have voltage showing high 11s after overnight but was showing 12.1 ish after a drive to work 30mins some highway driving 80-90kms

New battery in March did not help havent touched it since just learned to deal with it. checked iacv was clean maf is clean

lately it has been getting much colder in Brisbane
normally after overnight on new batter i am getting 12.2 and going into crank 9.6 ish sometimes lower
recently I do not get ANY turn over at all once key is in voltage drops from 12.2 to 9.5-6 and a SINGLE click just once then nothing
held key in for a long time turned everything off tried again single click nothing again took keys out turned off turbotimer put back in tried again BAM crank start almost instantly didnt stutter this 1 time

really intermittent checked all my connections and it looks like new terminal cables were used for relocation kit and installed new grounding kit at the same time all fuses are intact I dont know how to check relays

sorry for long as post just wanted to give you guys all the deets
any help is appreciated

Could possibly be the alternator not getting enough charge. Take it for a nice long drive to charge up the alternator. Then try start it up again and see if it fires up first time.

Also from what it sounds like that turbo timer may also be playing a roll in this.

My opinion I would take the turbo timer out as there really isn't any point for one.. Just don't drive your car as hard for the last 10 mins of you drive and when you come to your final destination just let it idle for 30 seconds then turn it off.

Also I doubt it would be the fuel pump but worth a look. check the ignition fuse and connectors to the fuel pump.

Let us know how it goes mate!


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How thick cable is used at the battery relocation. Then google volt drop calculation and compare the size cable that subaru used for a 1m run to the starter, vs your 5m run from battery relocation....

__________________
Doing it for all the wagons out there

A battery showing 12.xxx volts with no load isn't a good indication of the battery status. It is when a load is put on and the volts drop (in your case to 9volts) that it means that battery is drained. I reckon you've either got a lazy alternator or a device sapping power (turbo timer maybe but maybe not, alarm system likely, audio system likely)

A possible solution: Buy or borrow a battery charger, and put the battery on charge over night so its charged right up for a first start in the morning. If it starts first time, it will give you some direction on where your problem is.

Thank you all for the replies. Just to update this morning it was warm car was sitting in the sun started up first try didn't even stutter.

@satie starts up again all day everyday fine. How do I remove the timer? I didn't install it was the previous owner.. And lastly the pump goes buzz every time

@Bram I will definitely check this. I just assumed the people who made it would've used something sufficient eyeballing it looks like 6 would upgrading to 4 suffice?

@matto thank you I didn't know what what is ideal voltage on load? 10? I have a stupid alarm system as well which actually does sound plausible. mp3 player was disconnected after the first no crank and it did not crank until 4th try after I even turned off my cabin light. I should mention there is 2 amps and a sub but they should have turned off with the head unit right?
Edit: I should clarify I pulled the face plate off the head unit (Sony xplod or something)
Thanks again guys

Follow the cable back to where it's connected in and just disconnect it (un-wire/cut it out)
Hope it helps mate.


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UPDATE

So last night the car would not crank at all and I had the turbotimer off the headunit and everything all disconnected. All I got was a click so I used the old hammer trick.. I whacked the starter motor and it started pretty quick.
a few questions ...

1. does this definitely mean the starter needs to go?
2. which starters are interchangeable? I have the denso 23300AA220 128000-8311
I see one on ebay thats reasonable but its a 23300AA221 128000-8313 and another one I cant read the numbers but its a ej20k
3. does anyone on here have one they are looking to sell?

thanks guys

Yeh mate from what it sounds like your starter motor is rooted, just get another one from denso or online.


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Thanks. So any idea on interchangeability?

What do you mean?