Before you buy anything earlier than a evo 7 do yourself a favour and try and find a transfer case. They fail regularly and even for evo 6's they are bloody hard to find.

Imho the evo is the faster thing but getting parts is difficult and expensive. Buy a gc8 and see if you enjoy it or are any good at it. Then decide what upgrades you want to do.

Brendon

I like the GT foz approach! They are the same car, just slightly taller. Can be lowered, caged and be really good for much less imo.

[QUOTE=urabus;792082]Before you buy anything earlier than a evo 7 do yourself a favour and try and find a transfer case. They fail regularly and even for evo 6's they are bloody hard to find.

Imho the evo is the faster thing but getting parts is difficult and expensive. Buy a gc8 and see if you enjoy it or are any good at it. Then decide what upgrades you want to do.

Brendon[/QUOTE]

shit, really, what are the symptoms? need to road test mine now i've got it going, my last concern is the integrity of the gearbox

Tony, i recon this is a good buy for $3k has a built engine but is unlic
[url=http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/tapping/cars-vans-utes/1993-mitsubishi-lancer-gsr-turbo-awd/1041045381]1993 Mitsubishi Lancer GSR turbo AWD | Cars, Vans & Utes | Gumtree Australia Wanneroo Area - Tapping | 1041045381[/url]

i've always had a soft spot for the old evo 1,2 & 3 personally

i met a guy off 4gtuner who has soooo many early evo parts its just not funny, those who know him will know what i mean, also heaps of parts available off 4gtuner forum forsale section too, everything seems a heap cheaper than wrx gear

Remember to adopt the K.I.S.S principal when planning your build. :)

[QUOTE=Strubaru;792132]shit, really, what are the symptoms? need to road test mine now i've got it going, my last concern is the integrity of the gearbox[/QUOTE]

They start to get a bit of a whine up and then bang. They are also incredibly sensitive to oil. Also brand new ones from the factory need to be pulled apart and have the backlash adjusted as they are often out of their own specs.

I blew a brand new one up in less than 100km's

I know you can get a crown wheel and pinion for VII - IX's but you cant get them for x's. Its $3500 + labour everytime. Im not sure about the earlier models.

Brendon

Keep in mind the Rallyschool cars run on normal street tyres, not rally tyres, and probably don't have the diff maintenance and preload settings that a true gravel car will have.

I have both an Evo and C Spec gravel cars, and the C Spec kills the Lancer for handling, but the Evo kills the C Spec for grunt.

[QUOTE=Tony;791742]ok so im still chipping away learning what i can here and their. Have ditched the GTI idea as i want to go turbo AWD. So im tossing between a wrx or lancer gsr. Im struggling to find any real info on the GSR in regards to reliability compared to the wrx of the same era. Can anyone chime in? I realized parts are harder to come by for the GSR aswell.

Tony[/QUOTE]


Why do you want to go 4WD? The cars cost more to build and run, there's more maintenance and the entry fees to rallies are higher.
The WA Clubman series is open to 2WD only cars, has a lesser competitive distance, are road booked (no pace notes) and there are 7 different rallies in the series (as opposed to 6 for 4WD State Championship).
I may have said this before, starting out rallying in a 4WD car is not recommended. 4WD is faster, not necessarily safer and several newbies who have gone straight into 4WD have come horribly unstuck and/or been hurt. Twice as many wheels driving you into trouble twice as quickly.

Buy or build a 2wd car, learn the sport and driving, then move onto 4WD.
You can find details on the builds of an X3 Excel and a S13 180SX here: [url=http://perthrallydriving.com/]Perth Rally Driving – Rally Driving, Rally Car Builds and Rally Pod Casts[/url]. We're also building an EK Honda Civic to start this season as well.

[QUOTE=drewgong;791882]rallyschool yesterday in the hills. i may be a subie owner and love my car, but as a bunky rally toy id be aiming at an early evo tony. evo2-4 ish.. the subies sadly had way more plowing understeer than the evos in the dirt and the older ones are lighter,cheaper,and just as much fun. subies had the better power deliverly with more control but the evos on song and killier sharp turn were a lot easier to drive and less of a wrestle. ill prob be in the market for one myself soon! got the itch![/QUOTE]

Don't base your choice of car on how a couple of cars handle out at Rallyschool - those cars are on road tyres and any of them with a bit of attention to setup could have completely different handling and power delivery.

Wavey and my GC8 is frankly pretty horrible around the same track out there, yet it works great on an actual rally stage. It might not be particularly chuckable (since it runs standard diffs and gearbox) but it puts the power down well in the faster stuff.

As for a cheap rally car - I really do think a GC8 is hard to go past. Lots of bits available, fairly strong (if you're sensible) and good performance out of the box. Get decent suspension, brakes and safety stuff to start with and leave the engine and gearbox standard for the first season and you're golden.

Im currently...Well have been for a while, building a GC8...
Parts from them, and the GD's fit so there is massive amounts of used stuff out there... you can even go to a 6 speed later if your that way inclined, you can run a car similar to Curley and Wavey's with standard Diffs or you can go thw whole hog and somewhere in between. Look at the recent results to see how well an old GC8 does amongst some much more expensive and tricked out cars.