See link below. Schedule R start for the basic requiremets.

The national rally code will provide details of classes etc.

[url=http://www.camsmanual.com.au/04_rally_road.asp]CAMS Online Manual of Motor Sport[/url]

Having owned a gravel rally car buy omething already built for your first one. It'll save you money and you will start to understand what it means to own and run one.

Get a 2 wheel drive as it gives you more flexibility in the events you can enter. A good driver in a 2WD will always beat a slow driver in a 4WD.

[QUOTE=Tony;727717]that is a possibility, But i really want an answer to my first question but. Can we get back on topic? im not asking what car i should buy. But what are bear minimuns to pass scrut and race. This answer will apply to all cars.[/QUOTE]

[URL="http://www.camsmanual.com.au/"]CAMS Manual of Motorsport[/URL]

Night time reading.

Car wise. Im guessin cage, extingusher, log booked, suit, helmet, gloves, intercom, restrictor, coilovers, tyres.

[QUOTE=Master D;727726]Car wise. Im guessin cage, extingusher, log booked, suit, helmet, gloves, intercom, restrictor, coilovers, tyres.[/QUOTE]

+ Navigator keen to pair up with a rookie driver? :D

[QUOTE=RichX;727727]+ Navigator keen to pair up with a rookie driver? :D[/QUOTE]

Ill just tell the GF that we are going on a nice drive through the bush. Nek Minnit whats the helmet for.

[QUOTE=Tony;727728]Ill just tell the GF that we are going on a nice drive through the bush. Nek Minnit whats the helmet for.[/QUOTE]

That is gold!

I know everyone has said it but it costs the same to put a cage in a 18 year old GC8 as it does a brand new spec C. Same goes for brakes / seats / harnesses / intercom / coilovers / licensing / log book fees / tyres etc. Down the track a 5 speed dogbox costs the same aswell depending on how far you want to go. At the end of the day it will still be a 18 year old car with very little resale value.

Parts are getting harder to get hold of now for GC8's aswell.

I didnt bother checking (because I would always use a weld in cage) but I think CAMS changed the rules as of the beginning of this year so that cars had to have a weld in cage. There is a grandfather clause for existing cars obviously but they definitely want to get away from bolt ins.

If you are even thinking about double duties i.e. take the cage out of a gravel car and use it on the road during the week you are kidding yourself. It has to be one or the other. Once a car has been on gravel they are never the same.

Brendon

Certain bolt in cages used to be able to get homologation if I remember correctly. But seriously, weld in cage is the only way. I would never have trusted myself with a bolt in :P

So, you want to race a GC8.

Buy it. Tear it down. Can do that yourself for labour saving.

Motor rebuild given its going to be 12-18 years old. 6k to do it right. Probably a fresh turbo too, 1k.

box rebuild, or a dogger, cos you will smash it. 5k

Cage... 3k for a good one. Panel and paint etc another 5k

Seats gauges interior terratrip nav helmets etc 5k plus

diffs etc 3k

Brakes 2k

misc 4k

x2 multiplier

60k?

Screw this