From what I've read and been told, the high pressure, high output pumps filling a swirl pot will also heat up the fuel cause its always working. That's what I'm saying, a low pressure, high output pump to swirl pot may just help

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Wide Body GC8 WRX
#217 Street Cars WA
Full 04 STi drivetrain
08 JDM 207
Garrett 3076 xtr

our resident auto sparky off ozfoz(bram) may be able to help you with the bypass simon, russ has already mentioned it to him to get on here & flick up his diagrams (he's just done the bypass mod on his forester)

this module is an emissions thing, they never had it in the earlier models (gc8 etc) so i doubt the heat from the pump running flat biscuit all the time would be a problem

when i had the 044 mounted intank in my foz running 100% all the time through its own power line & used the stock power feed to trigger the relay, worked a treat, muggz now has my old setup in his foz

I'm gonna do the hard wire mod today I think. Just like you wrote, main 12v wire from battery & wire from loom to trigger it.

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Cheers,

Simon.

You dont want to do that incase you have a crash. Dont want a feedline running a fuel pump constantly. Bram has a very good setup. Pm me for his number.

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Huge range of extinguisher brackets for cars!

http://kap.industries/

Or join ozfoz and look at this thread. OzFoz.com • Login

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Huge range of extinguisher brackets for cars!

http://kap.industries/

its not like its hardwired direct to the battery russ, the factory power wire used to trigger the relay will shut the pump down the same way when the keys turned off? well thats my understanding

what happens in a stock setup? does the ecu detect you've had a crash and turn the pump off whilst the ignition is still on?

That's exactly how I see it Chris.

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Cheers,

Simon.

Inertia switch used on many cars to detect a crash. My Lotus has one but no idea how common they are on other cars

Most late model cars do have them i normally keep a couple in stock but have sold out at the moment. As far as i know they are just a 2 pin connector (feed in and power out) and cut out when knocked.

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Why so serious?

So my brakes need to match the power I'm now making & after chatting to Mao at Evo R, I decided to get myself a set of the STD brand 6 pot fronts & 4 pot rears. The quality on the callipers & discs is of a very high standard.

I did consider the usual Brembo upgrade, but, I thought the cost of the Brembo's 2nd hand is usually around the $1500 figure for front & rears, then I need discs DBA 4000 are about $500 for the front & $400 for the rears. Then add in some pads, say $600 front & rear & a set of braided lines $150 I'm just tipping 3K. This kit allowed me to get everything I just listed, but brand new, so no potential seal leakages, for the same cost (or close enough) but everything is that next size larger. Progressive piston sizes will hopefully help me feel the brakes better, as the smaller piston will engage first, then the medium, then the larger sized, as seen in the picture below.



The STD fronts are 355mm rotors for the front & 330 at the rear. So, basically the rear is the same size as the Brembo front & the front is larger by 25mm. I only have 4 pots on the car now, which are 297mm front discs, have a look at the size difference between the two.



The calliper / disc shot is of the driver & passenger side as I was only test fitting yesterday, but you get the general idea of the size difference.





To say I am looking forward to getting these on the car & getting them bedded in & then give them a proper trial at Jacks Hill for the SES on the 10th of August, is a slight understatement.

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Cheers,

Simon.