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  #681  
Old 25-04-2015, 10:12 AM
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Jezza... I just want reliable mid 300-400 so rods pistons studs gets you there safe from what I understand after chatting to the shop, maybe sleeving too, I may be wrong and the builder will know better when I get there on Tuesday. If he says the bottom end is fine in its current form then I'll only to the top end as suggested.
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  #682  
Old 25-04-2015, 10:13 AM
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Thinking Blouch 2.5xtr with 8cm housing....maybe 1.5xtr depending on the differences between the two, will have to speak to Troy....all depending on how much build costs are on Tuesday.

I agree with Nick here....forge it now that its getting opened, don't want to only do head gasket then in a few months time pop a cadbury piston
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Last edited by RJ999; 25-04-2015 at 10:18 AM.
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  #683  
Old 25-04-2015, 10:24 AM
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No need to sleeve for that power.
To be fair I wouldn't even sleeve it. Especially given the trouble my engine has had in previous hands.

The pics below were from my 2 Door GC8 which made 450KW. It was just pinned with standard bores. The block is still going strong some 5 years later. It's had one refresh in that time as It's done about 50K since I originally had it pinned.
I would recommend the ARP 625 studs as a bare minimum though.


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  #684  
Old 25-04-2015, 10:39 AM
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This is the research I did, I ended up with a Zage GT2871 (Garrett Japan) with billet 11 blade wheel (bigger tip than 12 blade) 8cm for $1750. Good for 350whp and 500wtq at 22 psi. Instant response at 3rd gear pull.
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  #685  
Old 25-04-2015, 10:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dazdavies View Post
No need to sleeve for that power.
To be fair I wouldn't even sleeve it. Especially given the trouble my engine has had in previous hands.

The pics below were from my 2 Door GC8 which made 450KW. It was just pinned with standard bores. The block is still going strong some 5 years later. It's had one refresh in that time as It's done about 50K since I originally had it pinned.
I would recommend the ARP 625 studs as a minimum
Yeah 625s are as a minimum for the studs, what else is there? (I know about the 14mm but that needs more work to fit them right? Definitely staying away from the 2000s)

Will just have it pinned, didn't realise you could do this. What are they called, are these dowel pins?
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Last edited by RJ999; 25-04-2015 at 10:58 AM.
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  #686  
Old 25-04-2015, 11:00 AM
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Yes do this and e85

Oh quote fail meant the xtr

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Last edited by Jacob92; 25-04-2015 at 11:03 AM.
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  #687  
Old 25-04-2015, 11:16 AM
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The stock EJ257 block is good for around 450bhp at the flywheel. If you keep below that level you should only need to change Pistons and studs.
Beyond that you'll need to pin the block and swap the rods too.

The block dowels in the pics are about 20mm deep and are an interference fit. The block is slightly machined for them and will need a torque plate hone and a reface afterwards.

There is no reason that a pinned EJ257 built correctly shouldn't make good numbers.

if you're just going to drop Pistons in you must get the block honed to suit the Pistons and to ensure you don't get future gasket problems reface heads and block too.

Spend the money doing it right now rather than several builds later.

Preparing the block is equally as important as the parts you use.
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  #688  
Old 25-04-2015, 11:46 AM
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Gage wasn't a direct fit Gordon. Go the either 1.5xtr with 10cm hotside or a 2.5xtr with 8cn hotside...
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  #689  
Old 25-04-2015, 11:56 AM
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Your welcome to take a spin in my betty RJ. I have the 1.5xtr 8cm on a very stock setup pulls nicely from 3600rpm and only 1.3bar for now. For my money I would take the response over the few extra hp and lag of the 10cm, just my two cents. This was also the advice from Troy at PSR. Horses for courses...

And yes, fuck Gage.
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  #690  
Old 25-04-2015, 12:02 PM
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Gt pumps does some good gear too I have an older s02 with a custom billet wheel fitted but they supply them like this now anyway.



using the Perth-WRX mobile app
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