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  #41  
Old 30-05-2015, 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by matto20v View Post
Every cunt knew that Throttlehappy's tunes were dodgy, and popped engines. It was all over Rexnet. It was news to no one except the poor fuckers who had him tune their cars.
This is true. I should have researched him harder. But, mine was also quite a long time ago. I think he blew alot more motors AFTER mine, than he did BEFORE mine. My exploding EJ was the first he popped on ozfoz, after that quite a few more surfaced. But yeah. Hindsight hey...
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Last edited by Bram; 30-05-2015 at 07:35 PM.
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  #42  
Old 30-05-2015, 07:43 PM
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Good luck with a rebuild. Can't wait to see your new creation back on the road. I am sure it will be even more special.
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  #43  
Old 30-05-2015, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Kremer930 View Post
Good luck with a rebuild. Can't wait to see your new creation back on the road. I am sure it will be even more special.
It is all rebuilt. That TH explosion happened years ago. I only just decided to put up a thread here today. But the car is more or less finished and its racing now.
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  #44  
Old 31-05-2015, 06:58 AM
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Hey thanks for the detailed reply on the remote tune failure. Great build thread and awesome honest appraisals of your lessons learnt. Valuable input indeed.
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  #45  
Old 31-05-2015, 08:18 AM
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Ahh. Sorry. That is what happens when I only read the last 6 or so posts. Good to see its back on the track then.

That is some pretty serious rear suspension. How much difference do you think the arms and braces etc made, taking into account your comments about doing the parts that provide the greatest impact...?
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  #46  
Old 31-05-2015, 09:17 AM
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Awesome bram! Please post photos of the agricultural water spray system!!
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  #47  
Old 31-05-2015, 09:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kremer930 View Post
Ahh. Sorry. That is what happens when I only read the last 6 or so posts. Good to see its back on the track then.

That is some pretty serious rear suspension. How much difference do you think the arms and braces etc made, taking into account your comments about doing the parts that provide the greatest impact...?
The spherical bearings at all suspension joints, combined with all the upgraded mounts and such make a noticeable difference. The car is incredibly direct and very responsive. Steering input and road feedback is instantly felt. There isnt any slop in the driveline. So its very twitchy and any throttle input or engine decel is also instantly felt. You can really feel whats going on under you. NVH on the other hand is just plain retarded.

I probably wouldnt go ikeya arms again though, i think id go the cusco full set of laterals and trailing arms. (Or even look at other brands like hard race or tss fab etc) id still go for heim joints every where though, and stay away from poly bushings etc where possible. The feel is very crisp and direct with heim joints. Going the cusco/tss/hardrace instead of ikeya is a bit cheaper i think that way, and probs wouldnt notice the difference going from the ikeyas.

The ikeyas are really overkill as far as strength goes. And they are really very heavy due to the strong thick steel, beasty joints and over the top engineering. And also heavy because of the extra hardware used to adjust the roll centers at the hub knuckle end. Thats one good thing about them, is that they have a built in roll center modifier (the only product for the rear of a subaru apart from a aftermarket crossmember that ive ever seen do such a thing), and adjustable squat characteristics. But really, you probably dont need it. Going from SG9 rear crossmember to STi rear crossmember already modifies the rear roll centers on the forester platform. And going from SG9 to STi trailing arm mounts also changes trailing arm geometry on the forester platform. Plus if i needed more (which i dont unless i want to super slam it), then a better alternative would be a tssfab rear member, which has a optional set of holes to mount the arms to, to modify roll that way.

One thing with the ikeya rear arms that i didnt realise was beforehand, even though they are fully adjustable, you still need to keep the standard toe adjustmemts. But not to adjust toe, to adjust them so they dont bind up during suspension travel. Toe (and track) adjustments on the arms are handled by the turnbuckle link and the outer threaded main joint. But because the 2 sets of lateral arms are 'linked' together to form a solid control arm. The stock toe adjuster in the crossmember is really important so you match the arms to the trailing arms and center it so as to not cause binding at your chosen wheel base. I welded up my rear crossmember to delete the stock toe adjustments, then realised after that i kinda need them for the ikeyas. Any other adjustable set of arms, and you can delete the stock toe. But the ikeyas need it. But then, if i had it, i would run into problems with the GTspec T braces. They kinda hinder stock toe adjustments.

What i probably should have done is gone with a TSS or similar tubular crossmembers, instead of the stock STi parts plus all the multiple braces. It would be close enough price wise, but get the job done alot better. And it would be a neater end product. When you get under the car and look at it, there is lower arm bars and tie braces criss-crossing everwhere in an attempt to stiffen up the pressed sheet metal crossmembers. Tubular steel members are plenty rigid, and you dont need near as many extra braces. STi crossmbers are substantially more meaty than stock forester crossmembers. But tubular frames are stronger again. I thinl i would have been better going straight to the moat beefy availbable, rather than trying to stiffen up stock sti parts.
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Last edited by Bram; 31-05-2015 at 10:03 AM.
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  #48  
Old 31-05-2015, 07:20 PM
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Wow. Some serious thought and research has gone into your selections.

In comparison.... I want some cusco rear arms coz they are blue!
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  #49  
Old 31-05-2015, 09:58 PM
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Sick write up dude! Awesome pics as well!
Look forward to seeing this thing develop


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  #50  
Old 01-06-2015, 08:56 AM
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Hey Bram, its obvious that you are a technically capable sort of fellow.
So im wondering what is stopping you from tuning your own car?
Apart from the obvious issue of a dyno, im sincerely curious to know what issues or knowledge shortfalls would prevent a capable guy like yourself from road tuning.
There are a bunch of similarly capable guys on this forum but it seems all leave the ecu tuning to a very few polarising professional tuners.
Is it simply access to a dyno or is there more to it?
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