My guess is, by reading the Paulr33 FAQ's, that you do it one at a time, but if that doesn't work, just do it again and leave it on.

if you cant find your answer in that power FC FAQ page then i suggest taking your car to your tuner and get them to fix it

btw when i disconnected my power FC and put it back in it lost the idle, so i sat in the car with my foot on the throttle at around 2-3k rpm until the thermo fans turned on and off.

boom idle back to normal

better go complain in the things that shit me thread now lol

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2000 WRX - Grip King
1997 Sileighty - Gate Monster

You deserve fuck all help you pillock, I doubt if even the following information will help you.


PowerFC RPM and Idle control are separate engine management tasks that ensure the engine does not stall when the throttle is released or exceed the engines operating limit when the throttle is depressed.

RPM Limit This is a fuel or ignition cut RPM threshold
Throttle Closure Fuel Cut (FC 1): This is the RPM threshold above which fuel is cut when the engine throttle is closed in the absence of electrical load (a/c off).
Throttle Closure Fuel Cut with Electrical Load (FC2) This is the RPM threshold above which fuel is cut when the engine throttle is closed in the presence of electrical load (a/c on).
Idle RPM (Idle1):This is the idle control target RPM without electrical load.
Idle RPM with Electrical Load(Idle2): This is the idle control target RPM with electrical load.


When a change is made to the injection or ignition map values (in the first 3 load row & first two RPM columns only) at idle or the fuel cut and idle thresholds (Idle/RPM menu), the PowerFC will attempt to recalibrate (or "relearn") idle control after a change to these settings has been made and the system is switched off then on again.

The 30 minute routine applies to all idle relearns.

There is no need to re-initialize the pfc.

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yeah i'll give that a shot

they're the ones that didn't do it properly the first time. my brother has all the tuning software and can do it himself. has been tuning his xr6t, his mates evo3 and another mates 34 gtr, all without any problems. so i think i can trust what he's doing.

i have a backup of my tune, so i'm not afraid to reset the ecu. i really just wanted to know the answer to my first two original questions, as they're the questions i was told to ask.

still not exactly sure why everyone is refusing to help me. or just giving me wise ass answers. i was only asking for a little assistance.

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It's at the corner of get a map, and fuck off

Thanks Ross

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It's at the corner of get a map, and fuck off

If you bro has been making map changes, then you should have been doing re-learns after every final map upload on that day.

can you please take a screen shot of your current ignition map & post it?

What is your target AFR at wide open throttle on boost?

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Hmm I did not realise that. Everywhere I read told me you needed to re-initialise the ECU to perform the idle relearn. Thanks for the info

I don't think he's touched the maps at wide open throttle, he was only focusing on the cruise/idle AFRs at this stage (from what I'm aware) as it was running rich as fuck. I don't know much about it to be honest. I'll grab a screen shot next time I see him, as it's all on his laptop

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It's at the corner of get a map, and fuck off

You want no leaner than 15.5:1 at constant speed, top gear, level road cruise.

Idle AFR's need to be < 14:1 for it to be smooth and not trying to hunt when your a/c cuts in & out.

P.s your car being auto, it will always be under load at idle.

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Yeah at the moment AFRs are generally between 14-15 when at a constant speed. Very rarely see's over 15. Idle is usually in the mid to high 13s, but it does vary.

Yeah good point. I was only really wanting to do this relearn due to my AC affecting the idle so much. As soon as I turn it on, it drops the revs to around 400rpm, and very slowly works its way back up. I can feel it dragging the power out of the car. As soon as the car comes to a halt again, idle drops to ~400rpm again, and it's embarrassing pulling up to traffic lights or a stop sign and having your car sound like it's stalling. From what I read online, the idle relearn procedure was supposed to fix it?

The AC was not working at the time it was originally tuned at All Star, so I'm just assuming that was the cause of the problem, due to the AC needing to be on in the original 30 minute learning process

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It's at the corner of get a map, and fuck off

you need to do you idle learns with the car in drive to load the engine as it would be pulling up to a set of lights.

Set the fc1 rpm to 1100rpm.

make sure your Fc 2 is set around 1200rpm otherwise the ecu may not catch the rpm in time to stabilize the idle at about 950rpm (set in idle 2) with the additional a/c loading.

Set idle 1 to 900 rpm.

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