How you have wired it up please??

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DAYTIME: 2005 Black WRX Wagon with Sti goodies!
PLAYTIME: 2002 WR Blue WRX Sti with goodies and more to come!

It doesn't appear too bad, looking at the wiring diagram for my clock.

There are 6 wires apparently

a blue red, a yellow blue, a white red, and a black. Black is the negative and is the same as the black on your gauge harness. The yellow blue is fed from fuse board 9 and is an acc (accessory?), and I would hook it to yellow on the gauge harness. the red white is also from the fuse board fuse no 12, and would be from the head lights, so I would connect it to the white wire on the gauge harness, the final wire is fed from the main board fuse 2 and I would hook it up to the red wire on the gauge harness, but check this with a test lamp or multi meter.

So you should now have power to the wiring harness, splice solder and heat shrink the connections. (ignore the orange and green on the clock harness)

The four pin connector will fit into either of the 4 pins connector on the gauge. These loop to either side, so you can use either one, and the short jumper can be used to connect the next gauge, etc

The middle two pole connector is for the sensor. Most are straight forward, battery, temp.

Oil pressure, I have a only red and black wires for the signal wires, red goes to the post on the oil pressure gauge, black goes to the body (negative battery)

Boost the clear tube connects to the inlet manifold some where to your choosing, the electronics in the boost sender also needs power, re is positive, black is negative, (car body), the white wire of the boost pressure sender goes to the red wire of the 2 wire signal wire, and the black of the 2 wire signal wire goes to the car body.

It looks like the wires are fairly easy to pull out from the back of the connectors. If the wiring harness is in the gauge, make sure you depress the release/catch and pull on the white plastic and not the wires.

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Race Torque Dyno 399 NM, 248Kw @ 20PSI

Straight roads are for fast cars, twisty roads are for fast drivers. I have or am neither.

http://tttmsp.smugmug.com/

Riceman,

Have you inserted the wire in the connector and pushed down on the silver bit on the top of the connector, the crimp bit in the housing, you may need to push a pin in first to open up the crimp, before putting in the wire.

Or take the gauge into an electronics supplier (eg Jaycar) and see if a cut down version of this 6 Pin 0.1 Header with Crimp Pins - 2.54 pitch - Jaycar Electronics (ie cut of 2 of the female pins of the strip of 6) and put in wire and push down on the metal bit to crimp with a jewelers screwdriver to crimp, if it doesn't self crimp. The shop would confirm this. Polarity (where the red and black goes is the same for all my gauges) just mark which way is up.

Worse comes to worse, I may not use all four gauges, and if I don't do the same as you, I may have a spare sensor wire. (The ECUdata scanner i have shows water temp)

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Race Torque Dyno 399 NM, 248Kw @ 20PSI

Straight roads are for fast cars, twisty roads are for fast drivers. I have or am neither.

http://tttmsp.smugmug.com/

boost wiring?? where do you wire up the white wire??

Thanks jeckle! I'll give it a go over the weekend

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DAYTIME: 2005 Black WRX Wagon with Sti goodies!
PLAYTIME: 2002 WR Blue WRX Sti with goodies and more to come!

Tim (monkey man)

The red wire on the boost gauge (2 wires) goes to the white wire of the vacuum sensor. The red wire of the boost gauge isn't a 12volt+ wire, poor colour choice by the manufacturer. Both black go to the car body (12-) and the vacuum sensor needs to pick up a +12V from somewhere like the red in the gauges 4 wire power connector.

Sorry, not up with how you did the diagram to produce one myself.

Cheers

Tim

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Race Torque Dyno 399 NM, 248Kw @ 20PSI

Straight roads are for fast cars, twisty roads are for fast drivers. I have or am neither.

http://tttmsp.smugmug.com/

^^^ Oh and welcome to P-WRX

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Race Torque Dyno 399 NM, 248Kw @ 20PSI

Straight roads are for fast cars, twisty roads are for fast drivers. I have or am neither.

http://tttmsp.smugmug.com/

so is this what you mean with the wires. (im looking to have only red lights all the time) and thanks ive been here awhile, im usually on rexnet. i might leave the boost gauge by itself and not daisy chained.



im planning to slice via vampire clips the wires to my apexi vacuum sensor as the one supplied looks cr4p and flimsy lol for a more accurate reading. as for the temp gauges they seem on the spot! im not sure about the oil pressure sensor

Close,

The daisy chain, vacuum sensor and the gauge sensor is correct.

I believe the white is for headlights on and goes to the white on the clock wire, the yellow is an accessory wire and goes to the yellow wire on the clock, and red is a constant 12 volt, and goes to the blue of the clock.(but those two could be the other way around).

I am yet to pull my dash apart, thinking about it I only want the gauges to get power when the accessories are on, I'll be hooking the red wire (of the 4 wire harness, and either yellow or white to the same wire on the clock to give the correct colour display for me. (providing that the low oil pressure buzzer doesn't go off each time I start the car.) Perhaps I will need the constant 12V+ to remember the alarm points (not that important to me) and the buzzers off, more important, as i think I'll only really hear them on start up, and not when the car is above 4000rpm.

__________________
Race Torque Dyno 399 NM, 248Kw @ 20PSI

Straight roads are for fast cars, twisty roads are for fast drivers. I have or am neither.

http://tttmsp.smugmug.com/

Your a legend mate!

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:)