A set of these fake defi gauges arrived today, I got the boost, oil temp/pressure and water temp today.

Taking them to work tomorrow to check how accurate they are.

Love the chinglish, they have wire, "eire", and "wier" which appear to be the same thing, and they sensor block is available "extraly".

Whats throwing me at the moment is a 3 wire pressure sender (red, white and black) and the input at the back of the gauge is only red and black.

Also the oil pressure (diagram 4) sender shows 2 terminals with a WK, whatever that colour is, but then again its missing on the sender, and a G (green) signal wire, so I guess the red gauge input will be the signal wire, and the black goes to the body of the car.

Riceman, is the volt gauge connected at the battery, (the red and black inputs to the gauge, or are you picking up the + and - elsewhere. You may be seeing some volt drop if your not at the battery.

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Race Torque Dyno 399 NM, 248Kw @ 20PSI

Straight roads are for fast cars, twisty roads are for fast drivers. I have or am neither.

http://tttmsp.smugmug.com/

let me know how you go. I gave up as it made sense to me at all!!!

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DAYTIME: 2005 Black WRX Wagon with Sti goodies!
PLAYTIME: 2002 WR Blue WRX Sti with goodies and more to come!

I just ran my voltage gauge off the clock harness, accessories and ground.

The oil temp sender has two cables coming off it (white and black), and on the back of the oil temp gauge there is also two inputs (red and white) As soon as I touch the cables together either way, my volt gauge ( which was showing 14 ) drops down too 11.

Completely stuck..

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I have no idea what that means?

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Sorry, the heater bit was more of a joke, if you run 12V through the temp sensor which I think is a (thermocouple) you would make the sensor a heater, and because of the size of the cables, you would see a voltage drop.

Probably best to run the voltage sensor from the battery, the two in the centre. Powering the gauges (the four on either side) should be ok, from the clock, and thats what I plan to do anyway.

Technically, volt gauges should be powered from a separate source from whats being measured.

Had a look at the boost gauge today, worked out the power side with the 4 wires, and colours. Getting the boost gauge to read pressure threw me. I'm guessing that the black pressure "receiver" (it has 3 wires) needs to also have 12v to run the electronics in it (which would be the red and black wires), and the white would connect to the red wire on the 2 wire input to the back of the gauge. The remaining of the two sensor wires (black) then would need to go to the car body/battery negative? Is that right? I would hate to let the magic smoke out.

With the temp gauge, (ignoring the voltage issue) if its a thermocouple, then its important to get the polarity around the right way for the gauge to read correctly, (it won't let smoke out if its connected round the wrong way) if its an RTD, then it won't matter, I'll check this tomorrow using our gear there.

Tim

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Race Torque Dyno 399 NM, 248Kw @ 20PSI

Straight roads are for fast cars, twisty roads are for fast drivers. I have or am neither.

http://tttmsp.smugmug.com/

From memory I am pretty sure that is exactly how I did it, and mine seems to be reading correctly.

I have no idea what this means, but if you work it out let me know!

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Cheers, I'll let you know.

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Race Torque Dyno 399 NM, 248Kw @ 20PSI

Straight roads are for fast cars, twisty roads are for fast drivers. I have or am neither.

http://tttmsp.smugmug.com/

Ok, so its not a thermocouple, (no mV output) and its not an RTD, or its an odd one as the resistance drops as the temperature increases. But I did find that the gauge (temp) was more accurate (with in a degree) when I had red to blue, and black to white, the other way was another degree or so out, but as is really only an indication, no biggie.

The boost gauge, when wired above was not very close if you compare it to a given pressure in bar, but if you multiply the gauge figure by 10, it gives pretty close results for psi. eg, 10 psi gave 1.0 bar according to the gauge (it should be 0.7 or so bar)

These are for my boost gauge, I would check yours seperately, to confirm this.

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Race Torque Dyno 399 NM, 248Kw @ 20PSI

Straight roads are for fast cars, twisty roads are for fast drivers. I have or am neither.

http://tttmsp.smugmug.com/

I tried to finish mine off today, but immediately managed to pull the oil temp sensor wiring apart from the clip, so I can no longer plug the wiring from the sensor into the back of the gauge. So I thought I will worry about it later.

Powered up all three gauges, and now the boost seems to be out. I previously had the boost gauge installed by itself and it showed roughly 1.2 Bar which seemed accurate, I have not changed the wiring for the boost gauge, except linking the power to the other two gauges, and now the boost gauge is only reading 0.6 Bar.

So weird I am now completely stumped. I have a oil temp gauge that reads 0 all the time, a voltage gauge that seems to be fine and a boost gauge which reads completely off.

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I still havent even got mine working?? Failed big time. Really need some assistance if anyoneis willing!!!!

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DAYTIME: 2005 Black WRX Wagon with Sti goodies!
PLAYTIME: 2002 WR Blue WRX Sti with goodies and more to come!