S204 RAR vs evo 9 MR - Page 4 - Perth-WRX.com

BLUES · #31 13-12-2010, 07:59 PM

Evo X FTW - close thread. Don't know why you'd bother with anything else TBH.

Kato · #32 14-12-2010, 09:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by low rider

Hey guys i was wondering which car would be better for track, daily and down the quater mile?

thanks

So after 4 pages, with no further info as to how these cars would be purchased and what they would be used for, what exactly is the point of this thread?

It's a bit like saying, what's better a Bugatti Veyron or a McLaren F1?

If you are serious on brining a car in for b-reg, let us know what type of racing you are looking at doing as that would be the deciding factor.

Quote:

Originally Posted by BLUES

Evo X FTW - close thread. Don't know why you'd bother with anything else TBH.

Agree... If I wanted a B-reg tarmac rally car, Evo X RS with some TMR lovin' would be where my money would be going.

EXPLICIT · #33 14-12-2010, 09:42 AM

Seriously:

If you want to actually drive the car with real feedback, buy a dak dak.

If you want the car to do a majority of the work buy an evo. (or do what Blaise did, and take all the electronic talent out and replace it with mechanical diffs)

CDR RA · #34 14-12-2010, 11:31 AM

^^^^ Agreed with John.

Pointless thread as both cars are as good as unobtanium...but to continue a pointless discussion....If you are serious about winning and you are limiting yourself to those two choices, in my mind a late model evo is the only option, especially if you actually suck at driving as the electronic talent will give you quite a bit of help.

If it is more about how the car feels to you and makes you feel, then each to their own. A car sans electronic talent with lots of clunky mech diffs and a real organic feel is my choice. This could easily be an RA subie or an Evo. Having had both, my most recent choice was the evo as I believe they have other technical benefits over the subie that make them a better starting point.

As Bendon mentions below, the RS evos do away with the SAYC and replace it with mech diffs. They still have the cheater centre diff though.

urabus · #35 14-12-2010, 11:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EXPLICIT

Seriously:

If you want to actually drive the car with real feedback, buy a dak dak.

If you want the car to do a majority of the work buy an evo. (or do what Blaise did, and take all the electronic talent out and replace it with mechanical diffs)

X RS has no AYC of fail. She's all mechanical.

In relation to the topic old mate needs to tell us his budget and what he really wants to do and how far he wants to go ...... then we can all clue him in on what it actually costs to mount any sort of campaign and go from there.

Brendon

low rider · #36 14-12-2010, 11:56 AM

Cheers for the info guys budgets around 50k for the car, i'll be looking at doing hill climbs and evo vs wrx days, plus track days. I want something will be reliable ( I know thats not guaranteed with modifying a car). I know the evos are great for handling stock and that they are capable of producing good power but is it true that the subi is better for down the straight?

BALISTC · #37 14-12-2010, 11:59 AM

Buy JME's car

BOMB3R · #38 14-12-2010, 12:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by low rider

Cheers for the info guys budgets around 50k for the car, i'll be looking at doing hill climbs and evo vs wrx days, plus track days. I want something will be reliable ( I know thats not guaranteed with modifying a car). I know the evos are great for handling stock and that they are capable of producing good power but is it true that the subi is better for down the straight?

If you want to do track days, hill climbs etc.... why are you worried about the straight.

They are both the same, the more money you spend the faster they go. A late model Evo would be better down the straight, Cams (which cost s fortune in labour in a late model STi), Zorst, Tune and you'll be doing low 12's. You'll have to spend alot more than that on a late model STi.