I'll pre list you as a buyer on the EL headers GB I'm trying to organise
then Andrew.

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221.7KW-ATW 498.5NM MMS ROLLER DYNO & BUILT BY STi NINJAS, BUILD #318/600

EBISU SUBARU, SHIBUYA-KU TOKYO

Considering I'm #1 pre "i just got roped in" list I'll want them ceramic coated Wayne <3

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[COLOR=Black]Liberty GT Spec B tuned 240 HP & 372 Nm at the hubs.[/COLOR] "Instead of banning high performance cars - ban low performance drivers"

My daughter can paint them to look coated if you want.

I'll be going uncoated on mine due to advice and info from a certain someone who knows a shit load about heat/cooling of metal.

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221.7KW-ATW 498.5NM MMS ROLLER DYNO & BUILT BY STi NINJAS, BUILD #318/600

EBISU SUBARU, SHIBUYA-KU TOKYO

That's a convo I'd be interested to have. Personally, I can appreciate ceramics and their properties.

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[COLOR=Black]Liberty GT Spec B tuned 240 HP & 372 Nm at the hubs.[/COLOR] "Instead of banning high performance cars - ban low performance drivers"

also interested, but im one for ceramic coating. Makes more sense from what i understand about it all. Would like to see a comparison, i doubt the difference is very big anyway...

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JDM version 3 STi RA

Hmm equal length header GB you say, would be interested in this if its not going to be organised for another few weeks?

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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

^^^Possibly Marc, keep an eye out for a new thread.

Sorry for the instigated hijack Andrew.

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221.7KW-ATW 498.5NM MMS ROLLER DYNO & BUILT BY STi NINJAS, BUILD #318/600

EBISU SUBARU, SHIBUYA-KU TOKYO

power loss due to drivetrain is not an exact science, as I understand it isn't some arbitary percentage figure that can be applied to every car. the loss comes from a whole heap of different factors, viscocity of oils in the box/diffs, how worn the diffs/cvs etc are, how worn the hubs/bearings, are the brakes dragging etc. I don't think there is a rule that could be applied that is one size "fits all". I think the best way in your case would be to get someone with a perfectly stock lib of the same year/model and put it on the dyno to see what it pumps out, and work from there as an educated guess. Even comparing what my results were from stock to now would not accurately fit what your car does. it is more likely to be a fixed amount (eg 20kw) plus a small percentage.
The thing to look at is the percentage difference between what your car made at the start and the end of the tuning session. I know when my car went from 210hp to 270hp ath i was most impressed.

as for the ceramic coating issue... its been done to death before, but...
Hot air travels faster, the hotter the air, the better your turbo will spin. I know Wayne is alluding to Ramons idea that you want the metal to cool naturally and that ceramic coating keeps the heat in... but thats exactly what you want. I've gone ceramic coated headers and rear turbo housing, plus a reflective coat on the heat sheild, and i will be getting the dump pipe done one day when i can finally afford a real one. Heat coating the exhaust is banned in F1, that tells me it must be a good thing

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MY93 Impreza GX 1.8L, 0hp, 0nm

I just want to clarify so there is no confusion, it's my personal choice of at this stage not going with CC due to things I've seen and info and I don't want to force my comments or decision on anyone about not ceramic coating stuff and I can see both sides of the reasoning.

*edit: Id love to see a before and after comparison to see if the gain out weighs the cost.

**Double edit and thread hijack: Kando is kind enough to give a whopping 3% discount on all headers! FARK THAT!!! I'm now going direct to the factory to which I've already found out which one it is, so there will be a delay in any GB.

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221.7KW-ATW 498.5NM MMS ROLLER DYNO & BUILT BY STi NINJAS, BUILD #318/600

EBISU SUBARU, SHIBUYA-KU TOKYO

Very interested to know the reasoning here. PM if you want.

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[COLOR="Gray"]550Nm off a 2L... Just wish it was in the dak dak...[/COLOR]