Spoke wit Alex at RMS last week, if im not wrong the Link G3 had gone
into some 03 model. There is no G3 for gc

The first Link G3 from Alex went into my MY04. I got it installed end of last year.. I haven't tried any other ECU besides UTEC(which sux). Previously with UTEC, I had exhaust "popping" all the time and engine cuts off intermittently at high revs. With the G3, its very smooth. Only complaint is the idle rev (only when air-cond is on).

Idle problem should be fixable tho.
G3 come wit antillah like autronic does?

Link is quick easy and does the job. Never have to worry about it breaking down like Autronics do sometimes (the ecu just dies).

Its all in the tune . If you get a good 10 row link tune then its all good. Idle can be a little dodgey sometimes but once your car has rolled out of the garage its all good.

Well worth the money if you want total control.

Having said that I would get Verso if it was a non gc8 car. Verso isnt available for GC8 so just get a link.

Hand controller has saved me on many times by telling me about problems and allowing me to set rev limits that are super low when i give workshops the keys.

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wrx diamond.....

Don't bother with Anti-Lag on the PossumLink as you will loose too much fuel and ignition resolution in the maps.

$2200 for a brand new PossumLink install + dyno time hey ? Hmmm.
They do pop up every now and then for $700 ish second hand which is great value for money and a couple of hours dyno time would not cost the $1500 differance.

If I was buying brand new I would seriously look into getting a PowerFC for a 99/00 WRX. These go for around $900 new and are a superior ECU with a nice handcontroller included. Get Sean at ASG to tune it and you will be laughing.

J

Power FC is definitely a good choice..... cheap too.

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Didnt GTR ETA have a powerFC in it? or possibly still does?

Is it the poor mans MoteC?

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I would like to add though that the Power FC retains the unreliable MY99/00 Air Flow Meter (AFM). To do the job properly you would want to replace it with a Nissan Z32 AFM for reliability ($350 ish)

See the Power FC thread......

The PossumLink will not have this problem as it uses Manifold Air Pressure.....

J

Oh yeah sweet as Jme!

Give us a PM if you find it or we can arrange something . . .

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To all those having problems with Link ECU's idle I refer you to this link, straight from the MRT Website...

http://www.mrtrally.com.au/performance/linktunetips.htm



For V5/6 (WRX/STi 99/00) PossumLink ECU Users:

Zones 17 and 18 are the ones that are important. If Leigh did your tune he might have got em around the wrong way!!!! Basically try 24 in Zone 17 and between 70 <--> 80 in ZONE 18. Worked for me.



Subaru Impreza WRX/GT ver. 5 6 with stepper motor idle control ZONE 17 (over run vacuum) general notes
This is the point where it registers what a trailing throttle is and it wont try to control idle typically set at 24 (24kpa) Idle is normally around 40kpa So on a training throttle when you back off the vacuum goes below 24kpa, the ECU will ignore the reading hence stopping it from trying to control idle via the idle control motor. This stops the engine from having a fluctuating idle when the situation occurs that you do end up at idle it wont have to massively re open the idle motor to compensate.

Subaru Impreza WRX/GT ver. 5 6 with stepper motor idle control ZONE 18
(default stepper motor figure for off idle position) general notes
These notes are only relevant to later model chips fitted to this ECU Typically a "magical" number of steps, and idle should be approx 60, so as this setting should be then set to 70 - 80. So when you step off the throttle the motor is at 70 - 80 and has not got far to move to a satisfactory idle setting.
The number in the idle screen in select zones, will be in brackets, is the number of steps at idle.

There is five symbols that also appear in this screen
neg (-) means the stepper motor is trying to pull idle down
pos (+) means the stepper motor is trying to pull idle up
V (V) means overrun vacuum condition, actual engine vac has gone below set amount (see notes on Zone 17)
T (T) means the throttle is off idle (and open)
= (=) means the idle has achieved the idle you chose
(IE if idle rpm (zone 8) was set to 800 and the car IS
idling @800 then (=) will appear)
NOTE re zone 8 idle rpm
The number displayed is double divided by 10
IE if idle is 800 the display is 16
IE if the idle is 1000 the display is 20