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#51
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Didnt GTR ETA have a powerFC in it? or possibly still does?
Is it the poor mans MoteC?
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[url]http://img514.imageshack.us/img514/6284/evobeatsstiug6.gif[/url] |
#52
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I would like to add though that the Power FC retains the unreliable MY99/00 Air Flow Meter (AFM). To do the job properly you would want to replace it with a Nissan Z32 AFM for reliability ($350 ish)
See the Power FC thread...... The PossumLink will not have this problem as it uses Manifold Air Pressure..... J Last edited by WRXTASY; 29-03-2007 at 09:27 PM. |
#53
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Oh yeah sweet as Jme!
Give us a PM if you find it or we can arrange something . . .
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M POWER |
#54
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To all those having problems with Link ECU's idle I refer you to this link, straight from the MRT Website...
http://www.mrtrally.com.au/performance/linktunetips.htm For V5/6 (WRX/STi 99/00) PossumLink ECU Users: Zones 17 and 18 are the ones that are important. If Leigh did your tune he might have got em around the wrong way!!!! Basically try 24 in Zone 17 and between 70 <--> 80 in ZONE 18. Worked for me. Subaru Impreza WRX/GT ver. 5 6 with stepper motor idle control ZONE 17 (over run vacuum) general notes This is the point where it registers what a trailing throttle is and it wont try to control idle typically set at 24 (24kpa) Idle is normally around 40kpa So on a training throttle when you back off the vacuum goes below 24kpa, the ECU will ignore the reading hence stopping it from trying to control idle via the idle control motor. This stops the engine from having a fluctuating idle when the situation occurs that you do end up at idle it wont have to massively re open the idle motor to compensate. Subaru Impreza WRX/GT ver. 5 6 with stepper motor idle control ZONE 18 (default stepper motor figure for off idle position) general notes These notes are only relevant to later model chips fitted to this ECU Typically a "magical" number of steps, and idle should be approx 60, so as this setting should be then set to 70 - 80. So when you step off the throttle the motor is at 70 - 80 and has not got far to move to a satisfactory idle setting. The number in the idle screen in select zones, will be in brackets, is the number of steps at idle. There is five symbols that also appear in this screen neg (-) means the stepper motor is trying to pull idle down pos (+) means the stepper motor is trying to pull idle up V (V) means overrun vacuum condition, actual engine vac has gone below set amount (see notes on Zone 17) T (T) means the throttle is off idle (and open) = (=) means the idle has achieved the idle you chose (IE if idle rpm (zone 8) was set to 800 and the car IS idling @800 then (=) will appear) NOTE re zone 8 idle rpm The number displayed is double divided by 10 IE if idle is 800 the display is 16 IE if the idle is 1000 the display is 20 Last edited by WRXTASY; 30-03-2007 at 12:05 AM. |
#55
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is it worth plugging the hand controller in and checking the parameters or is the laptop the better way to check settings/values?
Also, what is the best way to connect the controller? any special precautions to avoid damaging the ecu?
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#185 |
#56
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why.. im gettin one with it enabled whats the deal why shuldn't u get it?
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1BCW 410 |
#57
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and also who can tune links the best?
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1BCW 410 |
#58
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it increases fuel use, decreases turbo life, requires extra switches for air con, is about as useful as a solar powered torch at night for street use. no real need for it in all honesty, car will perform better with the ecu, antilag will gain you nothing.
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#185 |
#59
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lols yeah im just in it for the noise u know how us p platers are lol
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1BCW 410 |
#60
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Quote:
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ecu, links |
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