The hobbs switch idea seems the common idea for controlling a lowcost waterspray. Back in the day, i used a hobbs switch for controlling waterspray however the idea of drenching the TMIC (at a specific pressure) in water seemed a little wrong.

I thought the idea was to spray enough to allow evaporate cooling to take place, not drown it in 10L of water.

Having a pulsed spray (and a fine mist) makes sense when it comes too the principle of evaporation.

Subaru's factory ECU controlled ICWS uses a few "conditions" to determine when spray, I do like that approach as it helps maintain water usage and effective cooling.

Just another on of those things to keep in the back of your mind.

Building a PIC or AVR microcontroller to do similar duties isn't that hard either (lots of plans on the interwebs)..

<shamelessly taken from wikipedia>
"The greater the difference between the two temperatures, the greater the evaporative cooling effect. When the temperatures are the same, no net evaporation of water in air occurs, thus there is no cooling effect."

TLA = TDB – ((TDB – TWB) x E)
TLA = Leaving Air Temp
TDB = Dry Bulb Temp
TWB = Wet Bulb Temp
E = Efficiency of the evaporative media.

Intra, you'll find that equation is only true for still air; when the air is moving kinetic energy is supplied to the water from the air and causes evaporation of the water, thus absorbing heat energy from the intercooler. Like when you sweat and the wind causes it to evaporate and you to feel cold. Of course, if your car is stationary your point is completely valid.

Whilst not totally correct (and the equations have nothing to do with actually getting a waterspray system to work effectively) wind flow would just increase the efficiency. The equation is a simplified one for an evaporative air conditioning system, where there is air flow. (It has also been far too long since I've looked at that stuff so I'm probably wrong!)

The main thing for everyone reading to look at is that dumping water onto an intercooler is not the most efficient method for reducing intake temps. It is effective, but more efficient methods as mentioned (i.e. copying OEM) can be implemented.

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[COLOR="Gray"]550Nm off a 2L... Just wish it was in the dak dak...[/COLOR]

Kato,

would you rate this based on its specs....

2008-2011 IMPREZA WRX BOLT-ON ALUMINUM TOP MOUNT INTERCOOLER KIT+BAR&PLATE TMIC | eBay

also what is the name of the hose called that goes into the the stock blow off valve (the corrigated 1inch diametre one with the pinch clamp not the vaccuum line) it appears it traces back underneath my manifold.... i have a hole in it and ive searched threads but dont know the name.... to get a result.... im think bOV return hose but google says F.U

thanks

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Ewrxion87

P-West TMIC / ecutek / HF CAI / Turbosmart / Apexi / Federal / 19psi / bc racing & whiteline / Perrin Performance / Rays

air bypass hose?

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2000 WRX - Grip King
1997 Sileighty - Gate Monster

yea tried that, tried BPV hose, recirculation hose....

the hose has started aging...and there are several small splits... i plan to get a silicon one but i cant buy something i know nothing about... i was hoping there is a kit i could get so i can do the turbo to intercooler etc... as well...

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Ewrxion87

P-West TMIC / ecutek / HF CAI / Turbosmart / Apexi / Federal / 19psi / bc racing & whiteline / Perrin Performance / Rays

I looked at that ebay TMIC a couple of months ago. Had a look at some hi-res pics of it that I saw on NASIOC, etc and it's a copy of the PW TMIC. Fairly poor copy too, the welds looked like cocky shit. I decided to go with the PW unit as I knew it would be a quality product.

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[I]trolololol[/I]

Is it that FMS (fast motorsport) version? If so it didn't look very flash internally. The PW core was much denser and free of crap.

I think so

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[I]trolololol[/I]

I will take some very up close pictures of my PW tmic and post them here for discussion.

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Funny looking German Subaru