Changing out the 257 Lewis?

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221.7KW-ATW 498.5NM MMS ROLLER DYNO & BUILT BY STi NINJAS, BUILD #318/600

EBISU SUBARU, SHIBUYA-KU TOKYO

Yeah its getting pretty tired after 3 years, thinking about going back to 2.0 & VF36/37/42. Don't want to spend big money on it as i plan to sell sometime next year.

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Range Rover Evoque Si4 Dynamic

207 = 42 for the win.

There's actually a S204 engine on yahoo japan at the moment for just over $3k and a couple of VF37's aswell

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221.7KW-ATW 498.5NM MMS ROLLER DYNO & BUILT BY STi NINJAS, BUILD #318/600

EBISU SUBARU, SHIBUYA-KU TOKYO

I made a query via email to Jarvis Subaru, and it turns out it is a Subaru dealer somewhere in South Australia. The short blocks from them come with the normal Subaru 1 year warranty, subject to inspection as per below:

Also from the looks of it, if you contact him direct (not through Ebay) you can purchase an EJ207 short block for $2500 plus $99 postage... sounds pretty good!

I guess you'd run in your engine on a pretty stock boost/setup anyway, but I wonder how the warranty goes with built engines etc? Perhaps when building a fresh 207 it would be better to run the engine in with stock internals before getting it built, that way the engine builder cannot lay blame on the new short block if it has mechanical issues after?

Group buy on 207's jezza?

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[COLOR="black"][COLOR="black"]UNDR8TD now for sale[/COLOR][/COLOR]
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What??? So run it in, pull it out and rebuild it so you dont have warrenty issues? I dont understand what you mean.

For most half serious builds, $2500 would be consumable monies anyway.

Pulling a motor in and out just incase there is a fault would cost more in labour than a new 207.

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[COLOR="Gray"]550Nm off a 2L... Just wish it was in the dak dak...[/COLOR]

Good point I suppose. Shown by the [impresher] build I guess, when Ben had to fork out a lot for labour replacing dead 207's...

But even though not just one, but two(?) 207's died in that build, I guess Subaru was happy to replace the short blocks.


I would like to know about people's experiences with new short blocks and building motors; what to expect, what to avoid, and what to look for...

It's pretty straight forward. Once you've bought your crate motor of choice..

1. FIT A NEW OIL PUMP.. especially do not re-use one thats come out of a motor with a spun bearing. Even if the pump clearances all check-out (and there is measurements for this in the Subaru service manual), its not worth the risk.

2. If you’ve spun a bearing, consider replacing the sump too.. they are cheap as, and it’s better than paying the workshops labour for cleaning the shavings out of your old one.

3. Head service.. send the heads off, have them checked out for straightness and cracks, have the cam lobes checked, etc, and make sure you replace any worn guides or seals. The head shop will be able to tell you what requires doing to get them right, and at the very least, they’ll be checked for straightness and cracks if nothing else.

4. New gaskets and seals throughout.. do not reuse any old gaskets, not even the rocker cover ones.

5. New water pump and timing belt. Might as well do it while its apart, will save you headaches later (and you can “reset” the timing belt interval for 100k km time, so its basically set and forget.

6. If your car has done a few km, new PCV valve.. cheap (30'ish dollars), and its good insurance (a blocked one can blow out cam seals, and yes, I've seen this happen before!).

7. Use genuine parts wherever possible.. I know they're not cheap, but its definitely worth it for trouble-free motoring.

^ Quoted for truth and solid advice.

Im off to buy, buy and buy.

Brent.

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* [REXPLOIT] - EJ207 2.2L build. Under assembly:
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