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#11
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The first pic reminds me of the Sentinals from the Matrix with all the braided hoses
A drain tap may be fine for a mere 300hp motor with tight clearances but I assume this baby is going to be sucking in the juices on the track and also on the street if Tino intends to serve daily driven purposes with it... You don't want to be emptying out the catch can every few laps (of Freo! ). |
#12
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Prototype runs a drain tap.....
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[CENTER][SIGPIC][/SIGPIC][/CENTER] [CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Built Ej207: Semi-closed RA Cases - Wiseco Forgies - Manley rods - BC 272 cams - GDA Heads - billet f/whl - Vi-pec - WbO2 - 800cc Yellow tops - TD05-20G - 409Hp ath @ 1.75bar on E85[/COLOR][/CENTER] |
#13
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True, but Rob is only running 400hp on a built ~2.2 (2.0L bore with long stroke).... I can only hazard a guess that Tino is aiming a couple of hundred horsepower north of that figure with his built 2.5.
Anyway, I think now that Tino has caught a whiff of Doug's advice there is going to be no stopping him! haha |
#14
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If the catch can is vented to atmo and you drain direct into the sump wouldnt you be also draining the condensation that builds up in the system into the sump??
I know it will evaporate off but would you want it in a high dollar build. No problems if the car is for race only but if it is street driven and parked up the system will pull in moisture into the can. Maybe a fix is to have a drain and then at about 150mls above the drain have a sump return and a valve so on race days you drain the system then open the valve.The can will fill up to the 150mls mark then start to drain into the sump. |
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catch, routing |
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