Yours is the exception Tino...lol..

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[CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Built Ej207: Semi-closed RA Cases - Wiseco Forgies - Manley rods - BC 272 cams - GDA Heads - billet f/whl - Vi-pec - WbO2 - 800cc Yellow tops - TD05-20G - 409Hp ath @ 1.75bar on E85[/COLOR][/CENTER]

The car drives alot smoother with the fmic, it was very jolty before so it defeniatly drives better. The kit is the one that used to be on tj's sneepsneep liberty, I needed to make a U bend onto the turbo but besides that it fit ok. We had already bought an my00 front bumper that was cut for a fmic aswell.
The bov has hks on it and the vac line co
es off the top with the vent on one side and the bolt on the left. I've seen the copy ones before but they don't usually have the his logo on them? I was hoping this bov would work as jems old one leaked over 12psi.

Genuine hks

Never worked

Bovs are for sissy fags who think their turbo making 12 pounds is going to explode

FMIC's are for real men though so all good

hope that helps

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I am only an asshole on the internet :)

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My genuine HKS SSQV has an adjustment screw.

I think Jemma is a sissy? The boobs give it away.

My bad....The vehicle specific kits have no adjustment bolt (like my gc8/gf8 kit), but the universal fit ones do however.



Here's how to adjust it:


1.First you should know that the usual tight/loose rules do not apply here.
The adjustment only affects the large outside black valve, not the small inside purple valve.

2.No matter how loose you adjust the bov, it will not leak.
However, if you adjust it too loose, the parts inside will come apart and possibly jam the bov (maybe this is why the op's valve doesn't work??).

3.For most applications you want the loosest setting, which allows the bigger valve to open faster loosing all of the compressed air

4.If you adjust the bov more tight, the air will only come out of the small valve first, then the larger valve, depending on the tension. This will create a louder high pitched sound for the small valve, and a smaller deep pitched sound for the large valve. Some people like the bov tightened all the way for maximum "shreek" upon release.

5.You need a 10mm spanner to adjust it. Loosen the nut closest to the bov slightly. Now you can adjust the top bolt to your liking. Go for a drive.

6.Once the bolt is where you like it, turn the nut to the right to "lock" that position. Do not over tighten the bottom nut. Again, be careful not to over-loosen the top bolt. If you loosen it too much, it will come right out.


There's all so a little ssqv hack (say you need to run your car over the pits):

If you disconnect the vacuum line to the bov it will stay shut, regardless of boost or vacuum applied to it. Handy if like flutter or have a licky.

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[CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Built Ej207: Semi-closed RA Cases - Wiseco Forgies - Manley rods - BC 272 cams - GDA Heads - billet f/whl - Vi-pec - WbO2 - 800cc Yellow tops - TD05-20G - 409Hp ath @ 1.75bar on E85[/COLOR][/CENTER]

hahah theres always an exception to the rule.. hahah

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I'm a jockey kunts...

yours is a v mount you fag

hahaha no it is fag... the radiator is v mount the IC is forward facing

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I'm a jockey kunts...

if a re-circulation fitting has been put on the hks (to make it plumb back) would it matter if the screw is loose or tight?