Opinions from those that know? engine build.... - Page 4 - Perth-WRX.com

JDM_STYLE · #31 08-11-2010, 08:35 PM

^^^From your local Subaru parts department, stock has apparently arrived and ready to go.

Contact James aka "MY00GC8' on here as he works at City Subaru and cant get you one slightly cheaper.

I also heard a rumour the price in general has gone down a few hundred but nothing has been confirmed yet.

teejay · #32 08-11-2010, 08:50 PM

If its going to be a big torque punchy mid range build, what are you going to do about the box?

Jezza · #33 08-11-2010, 09:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Autopilot

Sorry to cut in but where can you get a 207 bottom end from right now? I may be listening to the wrong people but as I understand it factory 207's are in short order in Australia atm. I'm in the same boat as Rossco I plan to rebuild in anticipation of the inevitable. I keep reading about Perth delivered 207 bottom ends for $2700 which to me is cheap in comparison to a built motor especially since I'm looking more for reliability than a HP queen.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....=STRK:MEWAX:IT

But most Subaru dealerships can probably match this

mARC · #34 08-11-2010, 09:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jezza

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....=STRK:MEWAX:IT

But most Subaru dealerships can probably match this

That's a very cheap price to be re-selling at.

I was surprised though Jezza when I called a dealership that I wont name 'located in Osborne Park', they wouldn't budge on $2,900 (stating its the standard trade price, which I later confirmed to be hogwash)

tuna · #35 08-11-2010, 09:48 PM

interested to see where you go with this rossco,

i've always been a fan of reputible engineering, so jap made or some racing heritage and you should be on a winner.

a lot of the reliability comes down to the machining though, too fine or looser tolerances on bearings/clearance and it will have a short life, regardless of parts fitted!

Rossco · #36 09-11-2010, 12:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by teejay

If its going to be a big torque punchy mid range build, what are you going to do about the box?

6 speed.

JDM_STYLE · #37 09-11-2010, 12:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jezza

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....=STRK:MEWAX:IT

But most Subaru dealerships can probably match this

Apparently Jarvis Subaru have recently been reamed by Subaru Australia for selling these cheaply on eBay and have been told they can no longer order blocks. So after there current stock has run out you might not see these on eBay again "so cheaply".

Sorry for the kinda off topic Ross.

Rossco · #38 09-11-2010, 12:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tuna

interested to see where you go with this rossco,

I've always been a fan of reputible engineering, so jap made or some racing heritage and you should be on a winner.

a lot of the reliability comes down to the machining though, too fine or looser tolerances on bearings/clearance and it will have a short life, regardless of parts fitted!

I'm aiming for clearances as follows:

Stock (new) OEM is:
Main: .0004-.0013 limit = .0016
Rod: .0008-.0018 limit = .0024

Planning to use:
Main: .0013-.0014 in.
Rod: .0018-.0020 in.

Just a touch looser, but with a higher capacity oil pump for safety.

Piston to bore will be as per piston manufacturer specs.

type25 · #39 09-11-2010, 01:40 AM

I like that you're having a go Ross.

Although pauter rods are very strong, I would certainly avoid them at the power level you're aiming for, and besides they are way too heavy.

I would recommend using "I" beam rods over "H" beam as they are stronger and less likely to throw oil around in a "flat motor" (boxer) than "H" beams.

I think your idea of the higher comp ratio could certainly pay off in off boost response.

RUSSGT · #40 09-11-2010, 09:32 AM

Why are you talking in inches with your tollerances Rossco?

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