Wayne, I have used the optima yellow tops in my 4bies for years.
They are a combination AGM of cranking/deep cycle.
If you just put in a deep cycle it will crap out with the cranking load put on it.

Mick

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RIP POSSUM
3" Invidia Zorst

I've read on quite a few car forums that the yellow tops are better for cars with stereo set ups and the red tops are better for hi performance cars.

Just found some more info that makes the AGM battery's stand out as a good option:

Due to their very low internal resistance AGM batteries will fully charge at a lower voltage, and accept a much larger charge current, so when charging from a standard car/truck alternator these batteries will all but fully charge, and they will charge quickly, in about 3 hours!

AGM batteries can be discharged deeper than conventional deep cycle batteries without major damage.

AGM batteries only self discharge at the rate of up to 3% per month, and even after 12 months sitting idle can be recharged and put back into full service without any major damage. (A standard deep cycle battery if treated the same way will have destroyed itself, it will no longer hold a good charge)

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221.7KW-ATW 498.5NM MMS ROLLER DYNO & BUILT BY STi NINJAS, BUILD #318/600

EBISU SUBARU, SHIBUYA-KU TOKYO

I used to have a exide orbital in my stereo car back in the day. Loved that thing, it could go down to 6 volts, i would smash 16v-17v when charging it.

Lasted 4 years going strong, then i put it in retirement in the shed somewhere.

Never had any issues with it, well worth the coin i payed for it. Only thing wrong with it, is that it that weighed a lot and was a very large battery.

These days i just use Cat batteries, but i am biased as i get them discounted.

This^^

Jeep (diesels) use the optima red tops from the factory, we used to replace quite a few a month under warranty. They don't like sitting unused & then being used to crank.


They are better for deep cycle (long discharge) use in RV's & 4x4's.

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[CENTER][SIGPIC][/SIGPIC][/CENTER]
[CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Built Ej207: Semi-closed RA Cases - Wiseco Forgies - Manley rods - BC 272 cams - GDA Heads - billet f/whl - Vi-pec - WbO2 - 800cc Yellow tops - TD05-20G - 409Hp ath @ 1.75bar on E85[/COLOR][/CENTER]

So you're saying just go for a normal car battery then?

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221.7KW-ATW 498.5NM MMS ROLLER DYNO & BUILT BY STi NINJAS, BUILD #318/600

EBISU SUBARU, SHIBUYA-KU TOKYO

I had the same problem as you for ages. Would only last 2 days before I couldnt start the car. Ruined 2 brand new car batteries in the process of trying to fix this.

On the recommendation of Joe (BALISTC) I went to Coventrys and ordered an AC Delco SEALED Battery.

Perfect ever since.

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RS Liberty - Because WRX's are only good for parts...

How much was that and do you need to use a trickle charger etc or just put it in and that's that nothing more needed?

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221.7KW-ATW 498.5NM MMS ROLLER DYNO & BUILT BY STi NINJAS, BUILD #318/600

EBISU SUBARU, SHIBUYA-KU TOKYO

it was around $140. And no specialised install. Just bolt it in.

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RS Liberty - Because WRX's are only good for parts...

Go an AC Delco as Stated above, make sure to ask for the sealed calcium type.

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[CENTER][SIGPIC][/SIGPIC][/CENTER]
[CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Built Ej207: Semi-closed RA Cases - Wiseco Forgies - Manley rods - BC 272 cams - GDA Heads - billet f/whl - Vi-pec - WbO2 - 800cc Yellow tops - TD05-20G - 409Hp ath @ 1.75bar on E85[/COLOR][/CENTER]

You're not at Giants anymore are you?

Can't use your contacts for a trade price on one can you?

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221.7KW-ATW 498.5NM MMS ROLLER DYNO & BUILT BY STi NINJAS, BUILD #318/600

EBISU SUBARU, SHIBUYA-KU TOKYO