Had knock of 10 but turned it down to 3? WTF? There should be no knock.
I wouldn't trust a Mao tune if he was the only tuner on the world based on a couple cars I have seen recently on the edge of blowing up.
Just my 2 cents

No car in the world runs with no knock - there is always some at some point in the map.

Its keeping it to acceptable levels that matter.

I dont know how they classify on the software being used, but if it was a pfc, 10 is fine.

__________________
I am only an asshole on the internet :)

[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

Just stocking up...

__________________
[I]trolololol[/I]

Hopefully I wont need that popcorn ? I bought a second hand FUEL PUMP CONTROLLER today for $30 and it seems to have sorted the problem!?.The guy lives in Leeming and is allways wrecking and selling Subaru parts,has adds on Gumtree all the time

When we went to take mine out..... the Controller and the 2 bolts holding it on were (scorching hot!??), after about a 45 min drive the second hand one I bought is only just a little warm. Car drives a million times better

Looks like rossco called it then? !

Recently I was researching those Fuel Pump Controllers and was most guys were having issues with the Fuel Pump not Priming at all , and in a lot cases that controller playing up. I had not read anywhere, of anyone having issues with the Controller still operating as such and getting driveability problems.

I see they have a HEAT SINK on them like on Amps etc but my Controller was amazingly hot!,still doesn't seem as the car is driving 100% but doesn't studder about through gearchanges or have that on /off power type acceleration now .Just still feels restrained somewhat when accelerating?

The guy I bought the Controller from says these units Earth Through the bolts that hold it on,but I don't think so( can anyone confirm?) .....

Your tune will now be off (rich) because the fuel pressure will be higher above 3000 rpm (ish) now the pump is running on 12volts when it should be.

Your tuner is a dick if he couldn't pick it running out of fuel volume and the associated high injector duty cycle on a stock car.

They are simply a pulse width modulated motor speed controller, the heatsink keeps the switching Fets cool.

__________________
[CENTER][SIGPIC][/SIGPIC][/CENTER]
[CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Built Ej207: Semi-closed RA Cases - Wiseco Forgies - Manley rods - BC 272 cams - GDA Heads - billet f/whl - Vi-pec - WbO2 - 800cc Yellow tops - TD05-20G - 409Hp ath @ 1.75bar on E85[/COLOR][/CENTER]

Today the car started to play up again but only a slight splutter on take off!?,acceleration is still VERY good and its only doing it when you first take off,not all the gears like it use to.

I felt this Controller when I got home it was hot too( the heatsink was pretty hot) the unit itself was warm,is it normal for these Fuel Pump Controllers to get hot??.....I'm guessing I have an electrical Fault elsewhere causing this

Check the connectors for the fuel pump at the tank - ensure they are clean and tight. this has been a known problem.

__________________
[CENTER][SIGPIC][/SIGPIC][/CENTER]
[CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Built Ej207: Semi-closed RA Cases - Wiseco Forgies - Manley rods - BC 272 cams - GDA Heads - billet f/whl - Vi-pec - WbO2 - 800cc Yellow tops - TD05-20G - 409Hp ath @ 1.75bar on E85[/COLOR][/CENTER]

If the controller is heating up again id also be investigating the pump . Even tho it might seem ok deterioration of the motor can cause high resistance which will make the controller heat up .
As Rossco said defiantly check the connectors at the tank make sure the pins are straight and there are no signs of corrosion. Double check that the controller has a good clean earth as well .
The heat sink does get hot but the unit itself shouldn't overheat If the same problem is rearing its head and replacing the module cleared it up for a few days you are very close to the problem now its a process of elimination . Its good to write down all the parts between the module and the fuel supply and go through them one by one eliminating them from the list could as simple as a crushed wire in the harness between the two or I've come across some one who had screwed something down and the point of the screw was severing the earth wire in the harness but only over bumps etc with the two halves touching most the time Good luck