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  #41  
Old 28-04-2015, 04:24 PM
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Agreed. People think that lower temp thermos are beneficial. Its not.
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  #42  
Old 28-04-2015, 06:48 PM
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Lower temp thermos are wives tales.......Your engine is designed to work within a certain temperature range - SUBARU knows best - with Ej's its 87-98 degrees.
(Coolant won't boil until 115c under pressure)

FYI: OEM thermo fans kick in at 94 (low speed fan) and 96 degrees (High speed fan), both use a 2 degree hysteresis (low cuts out at 92, high cuts out at 94).

Your stock thermostat opens at 77 degrees.

More important is your oil temp!

Said many times before SUBARU OEM head gaskets are the best!

Invest in some ARP head studs to keep it all together better - no need to go overboard with 625+ or 14mm studs if it's a street car.....
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[CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Built Ej207: Semi-closed RA Cases - Wiseco Forgies - Manley rods - BC 272 cams - GDA Heads - billet f/whl - Vi-pec - WbO2 - 800cc Yellow tops - TD05-20G - 409Hp ath @ 1.75bar on E85[/COLOR][/CENTER]

Last edited by Rossco; 28-04-2015 at 06:51 PM.
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  #43  
Old 28-04-2015, 06:59 PM
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Kinda on-topic - Guys that are running after-market aluminium radiators. I just bought one. A Mishimoto X-Line 3 row.

Comes with it's own 1.3bar cap on the radiator. Am I being paranoid, or should I not run with in conjunction with the OEM cap on the header tank?

Subaru WRX/STI X-Line Performance Aluminum Radiator, 2001–2007, by Mishimoto
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  #44  
Old 28-04-2015, 08:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossco View Post

Said many times before SUBARU OEM head gaskets are the best!

Invest in some ARP head studs to keep it all together better - no need to go overboard with 625+ or 14mm studs if it's a street car.....
I think I'm going to swap the Tomei and go back to OEMs... I'm getting 625s
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  #45  
Old 28-04-2015, 09:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RJ999 View Post
I think I'm going to swap the Tomei and go back to OEMs... I'm getting 625s
Why are you getting 625+'s?

Complete overkill for your application...... 625+'s are $700 worth of head studs......Great if you can run 35Psi of boost - a waste unless you are sleeving & close decking the cases.

The ARP 260-4701 head studs are what I have in mine ($280) - I run 1.7 bar daily & rev it to 8500 rpm - the heads have not lifted in 4 years......... On OEM head gaskets too.

I also have the ARP case bolts 260-5401 ($550) - Which add crank case rigidity - a far better investment imho.
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  #46  
Old 28-04-2015, 09:15 PM
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Rossco - See Jacob's foz had arp2000s gasket went, apparently 625s were the go.
You using Subaru oem head gaskets still?
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  #47  
Old 28-04-2015, 09:19 PM
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I had commetic shit in there tho


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Last edited by Jacob92; 28-04-2015 at 09:24 PM.
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  #48  
Old 28-04-2015, 09:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RJ999 View Post
Rossco - See Jacob's foz had arp2000s gasket went, apparently 625s were the go.
You using Subaru oem head gaskets still?
Yep - Subaru OEM head gaskets in mine.

Jacobs HG DID NOT fail because the ARP 11mm head bolts stretched!!

^^ Read that twice.......

the contributing factor was that he used Cometic head gaskets during assembly (I thought they'd been hylomar'd but apparently not )

625's are the rage in 700HP+ builds - like I said - Unless you are sleeving/closed decking your 2.5 you are wasting your money.

Use ARP 11mm studs - get the case bolt set - Add forged pistons - Add cams - have it all properly balanced - Enjoy your daily 300-330hp at the hubs.
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Last edited by Rossco; 28-04-2015 at 09:49 PM.
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  #49  
Old 28-04-2015, 09:30 PM
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No hylomar was used on mine

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  #50  
Old 28-04-2015, 09:32 PM
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move this chat to my thread Rossco
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