The stock line size should be fine, the turbo cooling works on a thermo syphon principal - It's the heat in the core that pulls the coolant through & back to the header tank (heated water rising pulling cooler water in from the head).

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It will build some boost at mid to high RPM - if it starts to runaway at WOT at high RPM then you have 'creep' and the only solution is to port the wastegate.

Pretty simple to do, just increase the hole size & add some relief on the inside of the housing on the leading edge of the WG hole to help direct gas through the WG rather than past it - problem solvered

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I think the lines supplied with the turbo are an AN4 whereas the stock runner lines are closer to an AN6. I guess it shouldn't make any difference as whatever the smallest size is within the turbo cartridge will limit the flow anyhow.

i did exactly that before i bolted the turbo on. i removed both housings and die-grinded, flap-wheeled and polished all the ins and outs of the turbo to match the up-pipe etc, i smoothed the comp outlet and polished it to a near mirror finish as far into the scroll as i could reach, and did the same into the turbine housing. I also enlarged and smoothed the wastegate passage way, and kind of had the angle into the wastegate at a more natural flowing way. the old blouch td05 had alot 'smoother' passage ways than the dom2.5, so i just enlarged and tappered out the passage way to try and replicate how the td05 was.

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I swapped in a 24psi or 1.65 bar wastegate spring today and did some logs on a specially made map that had three different low wastegate duty cycles set to intelligent, sport and sport sharp modes. I now have 12,14 and 16psi of boost and things are starting to feel better. At last I can hear my BOV venting back into the intake pod.

Yea my turbo smart actuator had a 21 psi spring but would hold only 16 psi when plumbed direct to actuator
using the Perth-WRX mobile app

Springs arent measured in pressure. Pressure is a measure of force over area and cannot really be applied to a spring. Although if the spring is specifically made for the particular wastegate, the manufacturer may specify that it would result in a wastegate pressure of 'X'

Something must be really wrong with your setup if you are only getting half the pressure of the wastegate actuator opening pressure. If the wastegate does infact open at 24psi, then your MINIMUM boost would be up around that figure. It can be a little bit lower, because pre turbine pressure can work to open the wastegate from within the turbine. But there is no way it can be that much below the opening pressure of the wastegate.

Either your wastegate spring pressure is not 24psi. Or you have a pretty serious mechanical issue. (boost leak, exhaust blockage etc.)

You can use a tool like a mity vac or similar to manually feed pressure into the wastegate actuator and observe the pressure needed to overcome the spring and open. This will tell you the pressure that the wastegate AND spring combination open at.

Alternatively, you could unplug the EBCS, or zero the wastegate duty tables, or manually bypass the EBCS by conecting the pressure port on the turbo directly to the wastegate actuator and do a run. This will give you an idea of the pressure the wastegate opens at. (provided the rest of the engine is working well)

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Thanks for the comments. The springs are spec'd by the wastegate manufacturer as a design rating.

We bypassed the ebcs for testing by disconnecting the actuator boost line and it hit over the previous ECU boost requested level. I didn't bother going WOT though as I didn't want to break it.

I really don't know what the problem is. There may be an ECU control issue as even when on the 12psi spring I wasn't able to exceed the gate pressure. This is why I swapped springs. I can manage the boost below the gate pressure but couldn't boost above.

Will get a better idea once we start increasing wastegate duty cycle.

As Bram said - Bypass the boost solenoid all together (loop the compressor bleed directly to the actuator) & see what boost (Psi) blows the gate open, this is your actual wastegate pressure.

If it's overly low i.e less than 9 psi - increase the pre-load
If it's overly high i.e greater than 15 psi - reduce the preload 1/2 a turn at a time.

There's no point in trying to tune your boost control if there's an underlying set up issue.

What boost solenoid are you running?
Are the lines connected to the correct ports ?
If it's a MAC valve what frequency are you running it at?
Do you still have a restrictor pill in place?
Are your boost control lines running through a T piece?
Is your MAP sensor reading correctly in your logs - both vacuum & boost?

Correct MAC valve hose routing below:
(If you're using a MAC the routing must be as per below, the vent can be left open. Port#3 from turbo comp housing, Port #2 to Wastegate, port #1 vented to atmosphere)




AFAIK: if you fit a 24psi spring to an actuator then the actuator will require 24psi of pressure applied to it's boost port to move it from it's at rest position, the manufacturer matches the spring pressure to the actuator to achieve this.

This might translate to a slightly lower gate 'cracking' boost pressure in operation - due to the boost pressure @ the actuator port & the exhaust pressure in the turbo's hotside both working to open the flapper.......But certainly not by 12psi!

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The factory fitted spring was 12 psi opening pressure. I also got two other springs with the turbo that are designed to open at 17 and 24 psi.

The ebcs is plumbed correctly.

I will continue testing over the next week and see what happens and how it reacts.