Unlikely to be stud torque, clean the hub face as per the DBA tech link ref my previous post 16-02-2007 @ 10:03 PM and report back. When DBA's method fails to fix it read my first post and consider removing the anodising ref Ballsacs oven cleaner tip.
If that fails re read the thread...it's all there

__________________
Speak to Shane @ SMC Tyres, Unit 6/385 Sevenoaks St Beckenham WA 6107. Mobile 0413 128 087. Tell him Maddog sent you!

haha very fair call. I was enquiring mainly to the CBF method and what damage that might cause?

I do have black hats Muggz. I assume in your first paragraph you meant 'hats' not rims as stated in the second paragraph. And this worked?

I have DBA4000's 330mm and i have this clicking sound too .. pretty much constantly, but only really hear it at 60kphish with the window down.

Coming from the front right only .. can't hear it from the left. Not really phased about it but haven't much idea where it's coming from. I'm not running the dust covers either. My pads are beginning to get pretty low so gonna throw some new ones in and see what happens then.

__________________
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Should have bought an STI

Hmm...test to see if you have pad knock off, with the old small 100pcd pre 05 wheel bearings and your larger heavy (iron) 4000 series dinner plates I bet it's getting up there.
Prescription:
After replacing your pads, should symptom still persist, take two sets of wheel bearings and visit your mechanic.

__________________
Speak to Shane @ SMC Tyres, Unit 6/385 Sevenoaks St Beckenham WA 6107. Mobile 0413 128 087. Tell him Maddog sent you!

My remedy is to find if you have had the rims powdercoated as excess heat can melt off the powdercoating from the back of the wheel to the hub. I found this out mid way during Dutton '07.

I ended up taking my 5000's off and getting the hats removed of all anodizing and powdercoating (as it was powercoated black over gold anodizing) I also did the same to Huy's 5000's.

__________________
MY00 GT Forester with STi goodies

I just recently started getting a click in my brakes. It only clicks once when i start braking and then it is fine. It happens almost every time. If I do not apply the brakes hard it will squeal a lot until i press it hard enough for it to click. Upgraded to slotted rotors and 4 spot calipers a couple months ago and they seem to brake fine and they have racing pads. Could it just be the racing pads and I did not notice the clicking before recently?

What do you reckon the prognosis is, Internet Doctors?

__________________
Geoff

APCV-R
AutoPro Canning Vale Racing

Hmm, my crystal balls reception is particularly clear this morning so let's see:

Background:
1) Firstly I doubt you have "Racing Pads" however we can still stroke your ego
2) Lets reference your new setup...probably Ferodo DS2500 and DBA648S Street Series or DBA4648S 4000 Series 266mm Rotors on second hand 4 Spot calipers? Geez I hope you went the 4000 Rotors cause your going to cop some C.Vale low budget Kmart-ish shite otherwise after your "Racing Pad" comment.

Discovery Phase:
4) Check for undue wheel bearing play / pad knock off (aging 94 = high probability)
5) Assumes pads in near new condition
6) Check for undue side slop in the pad/locating pins
7) Check slotted rotors are installed in correct direction ref DBA site

Options:
8) Hmm...slotted rotors, with new pads, making a single click sound, on second hand Calipers...On initial hard braking application the pad moves in the caliper until it seats causing a click, like they do in reverse? Try another set of pads to eliminate these if problem persists take 2 replacement front Calipers and test again. Or try new pad locating pins first.
9) "Exercise" the caliper pistons to ensure any build up of grime is removed from the pistons sealing edge. Use a lever to push one in at a time and repeat several times for each of the 4 per side. Take care not to overflow the Brake Master Cylinder.
10) *An age-old trick is to put a small amount of copper slip (copper grease) onto the back of the pads where they contact the brake caliper piston and on the pad shims, if present. While this will normally stop the squeal, getting grease on the pads or discs will affect braking performance.

Additional Preventative Actions:
a) *Chamfer the leading edge of your "Race" pads to avoid undue initial bite
c) Replace worn wheel bearings
d) Remove FOD from area
e) Start your own thread in future or send payment to address below
f) Before anyone else tells me I need to get a life, I know
g) If you just want it fixed give Shane a call, ref my signature. Mention maddog said to give him a visit and Shane will help with some friendly expert and professional advice....ahhhh, my crystal ball is now starting to blur over...

*References:
Wikipedia is your friend
Nauli this thread wtf, would that give Steve or me the IP or Moral Rights seeing it is my thread?

__________________
Speak to Shane @ SMC Tyres, Unit 6/385 Sevenoaks St Beckenham WA 6107. Mobile 0413 128 087. Tell him Maddog sent you!

As Morgan knows, the first set of 5000's I had did this after about 6 months into regular racing. Did the wheel bearings and it quietened down for a little while... until I did another event where heat entered the equation again!

However, Morgan, lads; since my last set of rotor 'rings' were attached to the anodised hubs and thus re-torqued with new bolts (by Neil), it has been a lot better. To date, there is the occasional light noise, but has never come back like it used to. At first I put this down to my brake ducting keeping the conditions colder- but for the last year or so this has been removed (ducting was cooling the brakes way too much for Sprint series!! LOL!). Still no real problems to date.

Check your torque settings... or even refresh with new bolts etc. I'd be willing to bet that aside from the anodising, the sheer heat is working together with this problem and the expansion is slowly loosening the 2 pieces over time??

__________________
"...even my Grandma can drive fast in a straight line"

13nm is the tension required for those nuts (as specified when i got new rotors).. my tension wrench doesnt go that low! haha

__________________
MY00 GT Forester with STi goodies

Lawl, :-) Thanks for the help! I'll check all that out.

Haha. Ok, they are not racing pads. Had 'Green Stuff' and hated it for road use, so now i am using good pads, but not racing pads. But they are a lot better than the $15 set of pads i had last time!

The only problem now is that the noise has stopped, but that was a good laugh! :-P Thanks mate!

__________________
Geoff

APCV-R
AutoPro Canning Vale Racing