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  #1121  
Old 12-09-2013, 07:17 PM
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Wouldn't worry about buying an alternator till you test to make sure it's not charging otherwise your just wasting money.
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  #1122  
Old 12-09-2013, 07:32 PM
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Serious question here. Where are you going to draw the line and say that's it, the car has broken too many times now, maybe it's time to sell it and buy something with reliability?
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  #1123  
Old 12-09-2013, 07:47 PM
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  #1124  
Old 12-09-2013, 07:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reverb View Post
Wouldn't worry about buying an alternator till you test to make sure it's not charging otherwise your just wasting money.
How would I test to make sure it's not charging ?

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Originally Posted by T R3X View Post
Serious question here. Where are you going to draw the line and say that's it, the car has broken too many times now, maybe it's time to sell it and buy something with reliability?
Probably won't happen....I love it too much and I've got the bike for reliability anyway
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  #1125  
Old 12-09-2013, 07:54 PM
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Easy way to check the alternator, but needs a $20 multimeter.

Start the car, Open the bonnet, set multimeter to DC Volts, its the volts with the straight line. Put the red on positive on the battery, black on the negative, the other way will only show negative volts, so no problems.

Should be 13.8 volts or so on idle. If its 12.4 the alternator is dead and not charging.

Also check that the plates in the battery are covered in liquid, if not pour enough distilled water in to cover them, not filled to the top.

The alternator doesn't drain a battery, even when its failed, it just doesn't charge. Its all the electrical components that drain the battery, and its not being topped up.
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  #1126  
Old 12-09-2013, 07:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeckle View Post
Start the car, Open the bonnet, set multimeter to DC Volts, its the volts with the straight line. Put the red on positive on the battery, black on the negative, the other way will only show negative volts, so no problems.

Should be 13.8 volts or so on idle. If its 12.4 the alternator is dead and not charging.
Cat, I'm just a few minutes away and would be able to come out tomorrow and bring a multimeter should you require it.
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  #1127  
Old 12-09-2013, 08:07 PM
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Quote:
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Cat, I'm just a few minutes away and would be able to come out tomorrow and bring a multimeter should you require it.
Thanks Soksta my brother has one so I should be alright

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Originally Posted by Jeckle View Post
Easy way to check the alternator, but needs a $20 multimeter.

Start the car, Open the bonnet, set multimeter to DC Volts, its the volts with the straight line. Put the red on positive on the battery, black on the negative, the other way will only show negative volts, so no problems.

Should be 13.8 volts or so on idle. If its 12.4 the alternator is dead and not charging.

Also check that the plates in the battery are covered in liquid, if not pour enough distilled water in to cover them, not filled to the top.

The alternator doesn't drain a battery, even when its failed, it just doesn't charge. Its all the electrical components that drain the battery, and its not being topped up.
Thanks for the info, but does the car have to be running to check or just key in the ignition ? because it won't start.
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  #1128  
Old 12-09-2013, 08:09 PM
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Learn a bit from Soksta, buy a multimeter from DSE, Auto 1 etc, its a handy bit of kit.
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  #1129  
Old 12-09-2013, 08:33 PM
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A failed alternator will not stop the car from starting as long as there's sufficient power remaining in the battery to turn the engine over.

Get the thing running first.

Do some diagnosis before jumping to a conclusion. Is the fuel pump now running? Is there fuel pressure? Is there power at the coils? etc.
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  #1130  
Old 12-09-2013, 08:51 PM
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As has been said, if battery is charged enough and its not starting, something else is at play. Need to check if getting fuel, spark etc.

#edit, just saw Dougs post above. Same advice.

Last edited by GX-REX; 12-09-2013 at 08:52 PM.
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