Also maybe try a fuel pressure reg? Its common in japan when change to a bigger turbo

using the Perth-WRX mobile app

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MY08 STI 422whp at 1.5bar on E85, built by Diversion Garage, assembled and tuned by EvoR

Update from new owner: 375whp at 1.4bar on 98, at Tokyo Motorsport

I will leave the car as is for now and enjoy it till the next round of mortgage sapping mods occurs. I couldn't afford to go all the way with e85 this time round.

If this tune wanders off the reservation again I will discuss the fuel line mod with Lane and go from there. Gordon didn't your afr's go off spec after your last tune and you already had the fuel line mods done?

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Bye bye betty blue. Hello F6.

No, my car ran much better with fuel line mods with vf48, I had a afr dip without it. So did Tom's and my friend sheldon' gr sti

Im runing fuel pressure reg with higher than standard pressure, I think it maybe too much for dw 265 pump.

using the Perth-WRX mobile app

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MY08 STI 422whp at 1.5bar on E85, built by Diversion Garage, assembled and tuned by EvoR

Update from new owner: 375whp at 1.4bar on 98, at Tokyo Motorsport

Catch can is in developmental/test fitting stage currently.

There is no shortage of space to fit the can in there. The problem is when the can goes in, there is no way to get your hand or a tool in to tighten it up to a bracket so I reckon we need to go with a battery tie down clamp system (like Hyperflows). The tin in the pics is exactly 100 x 170, identical to the can Russ is making.

The two inlet ports will be on the side and the two outlet ports will be on top of the can with 90 degree elbows.

Other than a band clamp around the guts of the can I'm not sure about mounting alternatives.

Any thoughts or suggestions are welcome.

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Bye bye betty blue. Hello F6.

Could have a small tray fabricated that sits under the battery and has an area where the tin can slide down into, this would stop the bottom from moving around and shouldn't affect routing of any tubes in or out.
Fabricate a L or V type bracket that mounts using the screws affixed to the head lights on the radiator bar.

Could remove the bracket, slide the tin up and out of harms way, this doesn't work when you have the plumbing in place, will need to undo the battery mount to clear the plumbing.

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2015 Forester XT Premium
2020 VW Tiguan Allspace
teejay: If I wanted a comeback Id wank in front of a fan

Nick you need one these. Maybe you can mount ontop or next to this bracket thats what i was thinking once i get my can & battery


Or just to the edge of the battery tie down http://www.bunnings.com.au/carinya-1...cket-_p3960592

Attached Images

 

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Wannabe Boy Racer- WRX 09 Slim Sedan 268.6HP 376.0 NM @1.2 Bar

Much wow
many powerr
very siberu

Usual anal updates to the first page.

Thought I would post up some more pics and feedback on some of the mods/products I have been thrashing for the last couple of years.

Hankook Z221 r-comps - Hmmmmm these tyres are great when hot, and not when they are cold. They take around half to one lap to heat up depending on ambient temps. Mine are mediums and they have taken some abuse, I have done around a 100 or so laps of the RAC (40 of those would have been in the wet) with these and they are still quicker than my AD08's so can't complain about the longevity of this compound.

They only make medium in my size 245*40*18. This compound is meant to excel at longer events like the 6-10 lap door to door events at Barbs. They are at about half tread depth and look like this now.

Run them at 36psi hot or else!


Pagid Yellow-29 brake pads - They are meant to be an endurance pad but work very well for sprint racing too. Consistent performance to 650*C. Thermal paint markers on my dba rotors indicate I have been getting very close to that temp on the track. Need to get hold of a pyrometer to do some testing as one of my next mods will more than likely be getting some air on to the rotors.
They have done around 70 or so laps of RAC, are a couple of mm thinner and a touch crumbly here and there but still work very well. They have noticeably better stopping power and feel compared to my previous pads QFM-A1RM's which felt wooden in comparison but were a great value for money track pad.

After installing these pads I had to relearn my braking points...


K-mac camber/castor plates - Stage 2 street/race version. Butt ugly and pretty crude finish overall but these things just do exactly what they advertise.
They are easy to use and install, to adjust them just loosen the three strut top nuts and tap away with a rubber mallet, adjust your toe in/out on the machine, tighten your nuts and away you go. No need to jack the car up or remove anything.

The extra camber and castor they allow really improved the cars turn in dramatically.
Unfortunately they have a very low stack height so if you don't have adjustable coilovers I would not recommend using them as they push the strut downwards around 10-12mm, effectively raising the cars ride height.
OEM strut top.


K-mac strut top.


Butt ugly.


KW-V3 coilovers - Great product, can't really compare them to anything except oem struts but they were worth every cent. Decent ride on the road and very good control and range of adjustment at the track for my level of racing.
On the road I run them in factory preset which is pretty fucken firm but at the track I run the front compression harder and the rear rebound harder to help promote turn in - Thank you J. Fowler!

Pic of the rear, the area I have circled is 10mm away from the tyre when installed so there must be a huge amount of tyre flex under hard corners to burn the shield away there. Thanks F.H.I.


08-10 STi's came with 20/18mm sway bars. I held off changing mine for a long time until I got fed up with rolly polly shit at the track. Recently I installed a 2012 spec front 21mm bar and a 22mm adjustable Whiteline at the rear (middle setting).
In hindsight I probably should have gotten the 24mm adjustable for the front but for now the handling is sharper with a bit more rearward bias, lift off over-steer can be a bitch occasionally...
Bye bye quad tip.


So I have been noticing the car using a little oil after each track day, nothing alarming around half to a cup full occasionally. I also noticed oil dripping from my IC and turbo pipework when ever they come off. Helloooo RUSSGT!

The first prototype was modeled on the 'Queen of Spices' and we attempted to install it next to my little jet ski battery, but it was pretty clear that it sucked balls. Neither Russ or I were happy with it so Russ asked if he could shove it under snorkus where he originally wanted it.

We needed a new prototype so I went scabbing through Russ's recycling bin and came up with a pringles can which believe it or not fitted perfectly.
Prototype #2


Installed.


Stealth, snorkus removed.


Red lines are the dirty breather lines and the blue are the clean return lines back to the intake.


Drain hose and valve, the only modification required for the whole install was to trim a small section from the tray to fit the hose through.

And yes it catches oil, last Sunday at the RAC it caught 90ml which surprised me because it was on the opposite side to most of the turns (clockwise track). Awesome work Russ!

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Bye bye betty blue. Hello F6.

Nice updates nick. Have just sent Russ a msg re; catch can.. Didn't realise he was up to the later models as yet and I was looking at the Crawford piece... ;-)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mine is the first prototype mate he already has a better one than this, it attaches to the chassis with one bolt. So simple and effective. The Crawford one requires a lot of work but looks very good too.

I think the idea is for this to be a G3 specific can but it will probably fit on a few other older models too.

Cheers.

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Bye bye betty blue. Hello F6.

Thanks for posting it up Nick!

Looks so frikin good down there hidden away! If i say so myslef... haha

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Huge range of extinguisher brackets for cars!

http://kap.industries/