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#751
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Fark this is getting confusing...I got the H tuffs quoted, I'll stick to them, they'll be fine.
Simple
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06 STi: 337hp @23psi on E85... 06 STi: 309hp @22psi on 98ron... |
#752
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I would also add a EJ257 is a completely different animal to an EJ207.
EJ257's are prone to gasket problems. To eliminate that you need stronger studs, better block and head surfaces and better than OEM head gaskets. I will only ever use the Cosworth ones the folded stopper layer they incorporate gives that added bit of protection should you have any movement. This is why I won't build engines for anyone as people probably wouldn't like the "its my way or the highway" approach I take with them. |
The Following User Says Thank You to dazdavies For This Useful Post: | ||
RJ999 (28-04-2015) |
#753
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What's your reasoning behind H-tuff rods?
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[CENTER][SIGPIC][/SIGPIC][/CENTER] [CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Built Ej207: Semi-closed RA Cases - Wiseco Forgies - Manley rods - BC 272 cams - GDA Heads - billet f/whl - Vi-pec - WbO2 - 800cc Yellow tops - TD05-20G - 409Hp ath @ 1.75bar on E85[/COLOR][/CENTER] |
#754
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I've seen a couple of the normal ones snap. No fault of the rod as such but had they been on my engine instead of the Cosworth ones the one on #4 would have snapped, gone through the block, smashed a piston, ruined the heads and taken the turbo with it.
In this instance the crank and one rod was lost and not the whole engine. The turbo Tuff would have had the same damage limitation abilities |
#755
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#756
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C'mon - those rods were dealing with hp loads well outside their design brief....
550awhp!
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[CENTER][SIGPIC][/SIGPIC][/CENTER] [CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Built Ej207: Semi-closed RA Cases - Wiseco Forgies - Manley rods - BC 272 cams - GDA Heads - billet f/whl - Vi-pec - WbO2 - 800cc Yellow tops - TD05-20G - 409Hp ath @ 1.75bar on E85[/COLOR][/CENTER] |
#757
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You're missing my point entirely . That also isn't one of the failures I've seen its just another one that I quickly found.
My point is The rods weren't at fault so what they are rated for doesn't matter. What happened after the failure is what matters. A normal H beam won't hold together and will almost certainly cost you an engine. A turbo Tuff one will more than likely hold together and save your engine. So for the sake of 25grams per rod (which really is unnoticeable) the peace of mind is worth it. I hope you see where I'm coming from and don't just think I'm being argumentative for the sake of it. |
#758
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I don't think you're being argumentative
However, H-Tuff rods aren't actually Manley "Turbo Tuff" rods....... H-tuff are a 'bit' stronger than normal Manley H-beams due to wider parallel side flanges - but if they yield & neck at their midpoint then fail the end result will be the same - they're still a H-beam that won't fold over at failure. H-beam 535g /H-Tuff 560g - same design (essentially bar flange widths) Manley Turbo Tuffs are an I-beam rod @ 613grams a piece! I-beams generally fold or buckle when they fail No H-beam rod I've even seen die has folded over when it's failed - all I've seen have stretched, buckled or snapped at their midpoint. Anywhoo - RJ isn't aiming to make enough power to begin to worry the standard Manley H-Beams, let alone justify using real Turbo Tuffs. If he was sleeving & closing the deck - I'd be saying something different.
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[CENTER][SIGPIC][/SIGPIC][/CENTER] [CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Built Ej207: Semi-closed RA Cases - Wiseco Forgies - Manley rods - BC 272 cams - GDA Heads - billet f/whl - Vi-pec - WbO2 - 800cc Yellow tops - TD05-20G - 409Hp ath @ 1.75bar on E85[/COLOR][/CENTER] Last edited by Rossco; 29-04-2015 at 01:23 AM. |
#759
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I was referring to the h tuff. Had I meant the I beams I'd have said so but I wasn't clear enough as Im typing on my iphone and I hate that so I take short cuts .
I certainly know the difference between the three types of Manley's. The H tuff are a significantly better rod than the run of the mill manley H Beam. I stand by my recommendations. I've built enough of these engines to know what's upto the job and what isn't. For reference I've seen the normal manleys snap at circa 480bhp. I'm going round in circles here but the h tuff in it's place would have stood more chance of saving the rest of the engine. Which is the point im trying to get across. Id rather use the H-Tuff over the normal ones even in a build running close to stock as they give extra piece of mind. I know that had I had a normal Manley in my engine the whole lot would have been scrap. Thankfully I had a Cosworth H beam (that are made by Carillo btw) and it was the difference between a failure that can be fixed and a full on engine grenade |
#760
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defs get a link G++ so many functions and options to get out of it brilliant piece of kit
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R32 GTR - 800ish 60.7 Long Track at Barbs 57.6 at RAC Reverse circuit. |
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