Thanks to Norm Butler to remake a dump pipe for me within two days.

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MY08 STI 422whp at 1.5bar on E85, built by Diversion Garage, assembled and tuned by EvoR

Update from new owner: 375whp at 1.4bar on 98, at Tokyo Motorsport

I want to keep the undertray to prevent heat wrap holding water causing rust, so just put on heat shield underneath header.

After three days, and 300km, the heat wrap is still partially wet. And accidentally dropped some oil on it, it was like a smoke show under engine bay when i test drive the car

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MY08 STI 422whp at 1.5bar on E85, built by Diversion Garage, assembled and tuned by EvoR

Update from new owner: 375whp at 1.4bar on 98, at Tokyo Motorsport

Headers should be stainless so won't rust I have mine heat wrapped haven't had an issue. Have had the wrap off recently to weld another O2 bung on and headers were shining and not corroded .

That's after 12 months and driving all conditions. I use a more expensive titanium based fibre wrap tho. Oh yeah with no undertray.


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With all these bloody retunes after retunes you would have been able to afford a Blouch fucking moons ago!

Unless Mao is doing his carrot shaped tunes for free for you.

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[I]trolololol[/I]

I aim for better response rather than power.

I'm interested in all the theories behind all the mods too. My experiments hopefully will enlighten a path to fellow GR/GV STI owners.

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MY08 STI 422whp at 1.5bar on E85, built by Diversion Garage, assembled and tuned by EvoR

Update from new owner: 375whp at 1.4bar on 98, at Tokyo Motorsport

Thx, btw how long did ur header stopped smoking, from engine bay and tailpipe?

using the Perth-WRX mobile app

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MY08 STI 422whp at 1.5bar on E85, built by Diversion Garage, assembled and tuned by EvoR

Update from new owner: 375whp at 1.4bar on 98, at Tokyo Motorsport

Can't say I remember mine smoking much at all after the first Time using ot


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I think this can be sti ringland failure myth bust:

http://www.vikingspeedshop.com/how-t...ur-wrx-or-sti/

http://www.superstreetonline.com/how...s-engine-tech/

Below is my summary.

Key misunderstandings on the causes:
1. Pistons r weak. Many betty sti r runing high boost for many kms. 06/07 sti is also cast piston.
2. Redlining engine. Most knocking happens in low/mid range. But high rpm is far more destructive.


Key points to help avoiding that:
1. Proper tuning, oen map is designed to run any where in the world and comply the toughest emission laws, not optimal for reliability.
2. Three/four port aos, catch can. Subaru comsume more oil than others. If oil gets into intake, ron rating will be reduced, causing knocking. Reroute pcv and camshaft breather if u can. Fully atmosphere catch can is illegal, but optimal.
3. Poor quility fuel, no more to say really, I would avoid v-power.
4. Carbon deposit. It creates hot spot, causing quenching effect on ringland. Drive u car fast once for a while and use fuel injector and upper engine cleaner every 12500km.
5. Heat soak. Excessive heat produced in traffic jam can be dangerous. Dont floor ur car after sitting in the jam. Fit tmic water spray is a good idea imo.
6. Use fully synthetic oil only. Better cooling, less blowby, better shear strength, etc

Welcome healthy discussion

using the Perth-WRX mobile app

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MY08 STI 422whp at 1.5bar on E85, built by Diversion Garage, assembled and tuned by EvoR

Update from new owner: 375whp at 1.4bar on 98, at Tokyo Motorsport

Just made a oil catch can from PVC pipe, inspired from crawford's chamber design, both chambers are filled with lawn mower foam filter. The outlet has a inline filter in case the foam filter decide to shit itself. Hopefully it works. All gap is sealed with epoxy glue to ensure air tight (as mighty car mods' boost leak tester). Bottom is a threaded cap for inspection and maintenance.

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MY08 STI 422whp at 1.5bar on E85, built by Diversion Garage, assembled and tuned by EvoR

Update from new owner: 375whp at 1.4bar on 98, at Tokyo Motorsport

Why not buy one off eBay? Alot better than pvc imo.. And wouldnt the steel wool be more appropriate?